John Alban, Alban Vineyards

“As Hospice du Rho^ne approaches--a big Rho^ne celebration--I find myself drinking more and more Condrieu. It remains the most seductive white wine to me. Plus, since my wife is pregnant right now, it means I don’t have to share as much from each bottle. I like the ’97 Gangloff. It’s super-ripe and just wonderfully luscious. . . . But if you can’t find this one, the ’98 won’t be a disappointment.�

Hospice du Rho^ne, June 15-17, features 200 wine producers from eight countries at the Mid-State Fairgrounds in Paso Robles. Information: (805) 784-9543 or https://www.hospicedurhone.com.