Key Lime Pie

This sweet-tart custard pie, properly made with a variety of lime grown in the Florida Keys, makes an everlasting impression.

* Border Grill: The buttery, crumbly graham cracker crust is filled with a rich, tangy custard enhanced with cream cheese. To offset the sweetness, it’s covered with a layer of creme frai^che and twists of lime. (Key lime pie, whole pie $28, slice $5.50.) Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1655.

* Authentic Cafe: This friendly cafe serves individual-size pies. The thick layer of creamy lime curd sits between a simple sweet pie crust and a light golden layer of meringue. (Key lime pie, $6.) Authentic Cafe, 7605 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 939-4626.

* Babalu: Before you sit down, you’ll see this “volcano� of a pie smack in the middle of the dessert cakes. The soft, delicate custard filling flavored with Key limes sits on a thick graham cracker crust and is covered with a tall, pillowy mound of meringue. (Key lime pie, whole pie $28, slice $5.) Babalu, 1002 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 395-2500.

* The Ivy: A family-recipe sugar-cookie crust is filled with a tart custard flavored with Key limes, which owners Lynn Van Kerstin and Richard Irving grow in their backyard. It’s topped with meringue and decorated with grated lime peel. Have it with fresh mint tea or Mariage Freres’ “Lubel� or “Cafe� tea. (Key lime pie, whole pie $27, slice $8.75.) The Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 274-8303.

* Pavilion: Pastry chef Sheldon Millett makes a zesty little tart with a graham cracker crust topped with a sweet and sour Key lime custard, decorated with three delicate peaks of toasted meringue and thin wedges of lime. It comes with a coconut chip, cut fresh from a coconut, covered with sugar and roasted. (Key lime tart, $5.25.) Pavilion, Four Seasons Hotel, 690 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 760-4920.

* Ocean Avenue Seafood: This exotic sweet-butter-crusted tart is filled with a Key lime curd with just enough pucker and sprinkled with shavings of golden toasted coconut. It is served in a pool of strawberry margarita sauce with slices of fresh strawberries and a wedge of lime. (Key lime and coconut tart, $5.75.), Ocean Avenue Seafood, 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 394-5669.