1998 Chalone Vineyard Pinot Blanc, Monterey County.

Less glamorous than Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc plays Cinderella to its better-known stepsister in this first-rate Pinot Blanc from Chalone Vineyard. The grapes come from a small vineyard with reddish soil on top of limestone in the Gavilan mountains. The wine is a warm gold in color, ripe and full in the mouth, but it has enough acidity to make it sing. It’s one of the best summer wines I know.

About $19. Available at fine wine shops.