GOOD TO GO : Soba Your Way

Nijiya Market gets a lot of mileage out of soba, the Japanese buckwheat noodle. The takeout counter displays yakisoba--seasoned noodles mixed with pickles and nappa cabbage and garnished with red ginger. Or you can have a yakisoba pan roll, a large, tender roll with soba stuffed in a little tunnel in the center. A noodle sandwich may sound weird, but this one is quite good because the soba is so highly flavored and the bread is so light.

Yakisoba, $2.99; yakisoba pan roll, $1.50 at Nijiya Market, 2130 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles, and other locations. (310) 575-3300.