1995 Fontodi Chianti Classico ‘Riserva,’ Tuscany (About $29)
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The 1995 riservas are just arriving from Tuscany, and this one, from Panzano in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, is a real beauty. It has a balanced, round sweetness and deep concentration. It looks like black cherry juice--and smells like it, too, along with black pepper and the wild dusty hills of Chianti. A truly gorgeous Chianti Classico that warrants the term “aristocratic.” The good news is that it’s so common.
(If you cannot find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, N.Y., (516) 467-6908.)
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