1997 Morgan Winery Pinot Noir “Monterey Reserve,” Monterey

This Monterey Pinot Noir exhibits so much Pinot Noir character, you’d never mistake it for anything else. Made in an understated Burgundian style, it is a very pretty wine with a silky texture, a lovely light perfume and a moderately long finish. A blend of the best barrels from the best lots of their five vineyards, the Morgan “Monterey Reserve” is unfiltered and unfined. Approachable and ready to drink now, it would be a great choice as a special bottle for the holiday table.

About $29. Available at fine wine shops.