The Legends of Fall

Root vegetables become staples for most cooks in fall and early winter, when the abundance of summer’s produce is but a faint memory. To be successful with root vegetables, which can be a bit tough and woody by November, recipes must soften and add flavor. That’s one reason oven-roasting is so popular.

With little effort on the cook’s part, roasting brings out the natural sugar of carrots, beets, parsnips, turnips and rutabagas, making them special enough to grace a holiday table.

Roots hold up to oven-roasting for the same reason they can weather the colder months in the vegetable garden. Their fibrous texture takes time to break down and soften, so high heat and prolonged cold don’t destroy them as they do more tender vegetables.

Start by scrubbing the vegetables with a vegetable brush or peeling them with a sharp paring knife. Cut off the waxy glaze that sometimes protects turnips, parsnips and rutabagas. Slice the vegetables into uniform pieces, half-moons or julienne strips for even cooking, then layer them in a lightly oiled baking dish.

Most recipes add a flavorful liquid to help soften the vegetables (fruit juice and white wine are two popular choices). Roast root vegetables at 400 or 450 degrees until most of the liquid is absorbed and the vegetables are tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Stir the vegetables every 15 minutes or so, allowing them to brown evenly and become soft.

Roasted roots are popular with kids because the vegetables always taste sweeter than when steamed or boiled. If you are playing to a tough crowd, glaze them with a small amount of honey or brown sugar mixed with juice, water or mild mustard before roasting. Undiluted apple juice concentrate brushed on sliced root vegetables also produces a delicious caramelized flavor that kids love.

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Carroll is the author of the “No Cholesterol (No Kidding!) Cookbook� (Rodale Press, 1991).

ROASTED PARSNIPS AND CARROTS WITH LEMON AND NUTMEG

1 1/2 pounds parsnips

1 1/2 pounds carrots

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1 1/2 tablespoons grated lemon zest (about 2 lemons)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 tablespoon lemon juice or to taste

Yankee magazine, a New England publication, featured this recipe by Leslie Land in its November 1997 issue. I’ve adapted it for low-fat cooking by reducing the butter.

Peel parsnips and carrots and cut into 2 1/2-inch chunks. Arrange on baking sheet with sides. Drizzle with butter and sprinkle with lemon zest, salt and nutmeg.

Roast at 400 degrees, stirring every 15 minutes, until vegetables are well browned and tender, about 45 minutes. Spoon into large bowl, then toss with lemon juice. Adjust seasonings.

6 servings. Each serving:

148 calories; 264 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 3.35 gram fiber.

ROASTED BEETS WITH HONEY-ORANGE SAUCE

2 cups tiny beets or 2 cups thinly sliced beets, peeled

Oil

2/3 cup orange juice

1/2 teaspoon arrowroot powder

2 tablespoons apple juice

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

Dash salt, optional

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

Place beets in lightly oiled baking dish. Pour in 1/3 cup orange juice. Roast, covered, at 400 degrees until beets are very tender, about 25 minutes.

Combine arrowroot and apple juice in small saucepan and stir until arrowroot is completely dissolved. Add remaining 1/3 cup orange juice, lemon juice, vinegar, honey and salt. Cook over medium heat, whisking frequently, until sauce thickens and turns clear, about 1 minute. Add butter and orange zest. Remove from heat and toss with beets.

4 servings. Each serving:

125 calories; 108 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.60 gram fiber.

SPICY VEGETABLE ROAST

1/2 teaspoon coriander

1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/4 teaspoon chili powder or to taste

Dash salt, optional

1 cup steamed diced carrots

1 cup steamed diced turnips

1 cup steamed diced rutabagas

1 cup steamed diced parsnips

Oil

1/4 to 1/2 cup shredded reduced-calorie Cheddar cheese, optional

If you’re short on time, get the flavor of roasting by first steaming the vegetables, then roasting them in a spicy mixture, as in this recipe adapted from Cooking Light magazine.

Combine coriander, cumin, chili powder and salt in medium bowl. Add steamed carrots, turnips, rutabagas and parsnips and toss well to coat. Spoon into lightly oiled baking dish. Sprinkle with cheese.

Bake at 450 degrees until cheese melts and bubbles, 8 to 10 minutes.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings, without cheese:

49 calories; 49 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 0 fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 1.52 gram fiber.