On the Eve of the Eve

New Year’s Eve is nearly impossible without champagne and far less enjoyable without good food. That’s why so many people go out for the night, albeit in a taxi or some other mode of safe (read: no drunken fool at the wheel) transportation. If you’re hoping to hail the new year at a fine dining establishment, it’s time to start making reservations.

Many restaurants are serving prix fixe menus and are offering some form of musical entertainment for the occasion. Wine and champagne are ubiquitous. Some places will let you in for just the fun; others require you eat there.

Because restaurants are not in the habit of overbooking their parties, many places will ask you to secure your reservations with a credit card or pay in advance.

Drink but Don’t Sink: The Queen Mary ocean liner in Long Beach is throwing a huge party, or rather a series of parties in seven salons and rooms aboard the ship from 8:30 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. You can reserve a table all night long in Sir Winston’s, the swankiest dining room aboard the boat, or in the Piano Lounge; $195 per person gets you a five-course dinner in either room, half a bottle of champagne and admission to the party aboard. Guests must be 21 and over. Call Sir Winston’s at Ext. 1596 for reservations.

* The Queen Mary, 1126 Queens Highway, Long Beach; (562) 435-3511.

High-Brow Holiday: Dine in high style at the Regent Beverly Wilshire. You can toast with champagne, dance to the big-band tunes of Arthur Hanlon and his quintet and dine on an extravagant five-course meal (the entree choices are either lamb or veal; think decadence). Cost is $295 per person, which includes champagne, tax and tip. Seating begins at 9 p.m. and the party is over at 1 a.m.

If you’re loath to see the fun end, you can opt for the hotel’s 70th anniversary birthday package, which gets you dinner plus an overnight stay, breakfast in bed and an hour of personal training on Jan. 1, among other things. It runs a mere $1,998 per couple.

* The Regent Beverly Wilshire, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 275-5200. For reservations in the dining room, call the holiday reservation desk at Ext. 2384. For room reservations or the birthday package, call the hotel’s main line, a travel agent or (800) 421-4354.

A Revillion: Crustacean in Beverly Hills is throwing a party reminiscent of the Revillion dinners given in French colonial Vietnam on New Year’s Eve. Costumed Brazilian dancers begin entertaining at 7 p.m. A seven-course menu includes such dishes as asparagus soup with crab meat, garlic noodles with tiger prawns and Buche de Noel, traditionally served at the Revillion dinners. The price is $75 per person and includes a glass of champagne.

* Crustacean, 9646 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 205-8990.

Harlem Speakeasy Party: Those who want to experience the southern side (via Harlem) of New Year’s Eve circa 1930 can head down in their black-tie best to the Shark Bar Restaurant. Champagne flows at no charge all night long, and a soul food buffet is available for munching. Live entertainment includes piano playing. The fun begins at 9 p.m. and the cost is $75 per person.

* The Shark Bar Restaurant, 826 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.; (310) 652-1520.

More Vintage Fun: Show up in your 1920s best (if you like) and Nic’s and the Martini Lounge will provide the jazz and the martinis. For $75 per person, there’s a party and a four-course meal. Seatings are at 6 p.m., 8 p.m. and 10 p.m.

* Nic’s and the Martini Lounge, 453 Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 550-5707.

Go Caribbean: The Libido Brothers are performing at Cha Cha Cha, which is also offering magicians, fortunetellers and a balloon artist. An a la carte menu is available from 5 p.m., party begins at 7:30 p.m. Cover charge is $25, paid in advance.

* Cha Cha Cha, 17499 Ventura Blvd., Encino; (818) 789-3600.

Early Options: For the early diners who want to be home before midnight, La Cachette is offering a first dinner seating from 5:30 to 7 p.m. The three-course meal includes such choices as foie gras, black truffle salad, tournedos of beef, farm-raised squab and lobster with lemon caviar butter. Price is $60 per person for food only. Diners seated after 9 p.m. will have a four-course meal that adds lobster ravioli or bouillabaisse. Diners in the second seating also get a glass of champagne and music for dancing. The second-seating meal runs $110 per person plus tax and tip.

* La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A.; (310) 470-4992.

Brand-New Party: The newly opened Bistrot Provencal on La Cienega, cousin to La Cachette (same owners), is having its first New Year’s dinner party. Seatings are at 6 p.m. or after 9:30 p.m. The first seating offers three courses ($50 a person), the second offers four courses plus champagne and dancing ($80).

* Bistrot Provencal, 829 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.; (310) 360-9064.

Kaiseki Dinner: A Thousand Cranes Restaurant in the New Otani Hotel and Garden downtown is offering a Japanese Kaiseki dinner for New Year’s Eve. The 10-course meal, including such features as abalone, sea-eel, yams, ginkgo nuts, baby sea urchins and lotus roots, costs $70 per person.

* A Thousand Cranes, 120 S. Los Angeles St., L.A.; (213) 629-120.

Chez Party: Chez Gilles in Beverly Hills is serving French specialties, such as foie gras, watercress soup, pepper venison, rack of lamb and chocolate mousse dessert. Two seatings are available. At 7 p.m. there are three courses ($75 per person); the 9:30 p.m. seating has four courses ($125).

* Chez Gilles, 267 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 276-1558.

Pick a Patina: Patina and the Pinot group are all serving New Year’s Eve dinner. First seatings are between 5 and 6 p.m.; second seatings are between 9 and 10 p.m. The second seatings have one more course than the first and include champagne, music and party favors. Prices for first seatings range between $45 and $65; prices for second seatings fall between $75 and $150.

* Patina Restaurant, (213) 467-1108; Cafe Pinot, (213) 239-6500; Pinot Hollywood, (213) 461-8800; Pinot Bistro, (818) 990-0500; Pinot at the Chronicle (818) 792-1179.

The Gypsy Way: Gypsy Grill in Encino is offering a four-course meal for $75 per person, which includes a glass of champagne and party favors but not tax or tip. The menu is French and main course choices include salmon, bass, filet mignon and veal medallions. Seating begins at 9:15 p.m. and includes entertainment from a two-piece combo. At around 11 p.m., the Bandidos de Amor will kick in with flamenco music for your dancing pleasure. If you don’t want to eat dinner but do want to come in for the entertainment, it will cost $25.

* Gypsy Grill, 16911 Ventura Blvd., Encino; (818) 784-7393.