Mean Pralines

Pralines (sugar-coated almonds) were a popular French confection centuries ago. The French who settled in Louisiana didn’t have the ingredients to make them so created their own sweet called praline (though it may actually owe more to a sort of almond brittle properly spelled pralin, without the e).

They used native pecans, then called Western or Illinois nuts, instead of almonds. In place of brittle sugar candy they made a softer candy of cream and locally made brown sugar. It is still a favorite candy in Louisiana, both with tourists and natives.

With only four ingredients, it’s easier and quicker to make than a batch of cookies and tastes much better than most cookies.

When you read the recipe for Garlic Rolls, you’ll probably think “garlic bread” and assume that you know what Garlic Rolls are all about. You don’t. This is a different experience.

Cunningham’s latest book is “Cooking With Children” (Alfred A. Knopf, 1995).

PRALINES

I like this recipe better with walnuts than pecans.

2 1/3 cups light brown sugar, packed

1 cup whipping cream

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups (1/2 pound) coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts

I like this recipe better with walnuts instead of pecans.

Combine sugar, cream and salt in large (3 1/2- to 4-quart) heavy-bottomed pot. Put 2 small bowls of cold water near pot, with teaspoon near 1 bowl and 1- or 1 1/2-inch pastry brush near other.

Cook sugar and cream mixture over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until it starts to boil, about 3 minutes. Let syrup boil about 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Use pastry brush dipped in cold water to wash down sides of pot once or twice to remove any sugar crystals that can make candy grainy.

Test for doneness using candy thermometer or “soft ball” method. If temperature of syrup is 238 degrees on candy thermometer, it is ready for next step. To use soft ball test, dip teaspoon in syrup and fill half-full. Let syrup flow into bowl of cold water. After 1 or 2 seconds, shape syrup with fingers into small ball in cold water. If ball stays firm and doesn’t dissolve, syrup is ready for next step.

Remove pot from heat and stir in nuts. Let mixture cool 5 minutes, then stir with large spoon until it thickens and begins to lose some of its bright shine, about 3 minutes.

Drop thickened nut mixture by teaspoonfuls onto sheet of foil about 25 inches long. If mixture becomes too thick to drop, stir in 1 or 2 teaspoons hot water until it is incorporated. Pralines keep well in airtight container and may be frozen.

25 (2-inch) round pralines. Each praline:

171 calories; 34 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.44 gram fiber.

GARLIC ROLLS

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley

1/2 cup oil

8 heated soft white dinner rolls, such as parkerhouse or cloverleaf

Stir salt into water in small bowl and let stand 5 minutes until salt is dissolved, then stir again. Add garlic, parsley and oil and mix well.

Put heated rolls close together in shallow dish and drizzle flavored oil evenly over them. Serve immediately.

8 rolls. Each roll:

197 calories; 283 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.09 gram fiber.

Plate and napkins from Hodgson’s Antiques, South Pasadena.