Not for the Birds

In the larger scheme of life, a perfect muffin doesn’t amount to much. But the humblest food can be sublime if done well, and muffins are not an exception.

My complaint with most muffins is that they are often too big with droopy edges, too dry with no flavor or like cupcakes instead of like modest good muffins.

A muffin should be freshly baked (although you can freeze them for a week or two, then warm them slightly so they will taste freshly baked). One of the most frequent errors is over-baking; that goes not only for muffins but for cookies or cakes.

Remember that even after you remove something from the oven, it continues to bake a few more minutes as it cools. The texture of a muffin should be “pebbly,� not fine like cake. It should taste slightly sweet but not too sweet (this is a personal choice, like salt), and it should have a wholesome flavor.

Birdseed Muffins are rightly named because they have millet in them. Millet is an ancient grain that is a staple in hot, dry parts of Africa and Asia. Because it is tiny, it has been replaced in areas where larger available grains can be found.

Millet is sold in health food stores and is sought out because it is very high in protein.

In most Western countries it is sold primarily as birdseed. It can be cooked in all the ways rice is cooked. I think it is desirable because of the pleasing crunch it adds to many things, especially muffins. Serve them with baked apples for breakfast or with cold sliced ham and a fruit salad for lunch or supper.

BIRDSEED MUFFINS

1 cup uncooked rolled oats

1 1/2 cups boiling water

1/2 cup butter at room temperature plus extra for muffin cups

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup brown sugar, packed

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 eggs

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup millet

Stir oats into boiling water; cover and let stand about 20 minutes.

Beat butter until creamy. Slowly add granulated and brown sugars; beat until mixture is smooth and creamy. Add vanilla and eggs and beat until well mixed.

Sift flour, baking soda and salt into mixing bowl. Add oatmeal mixture to butter mixture; stir to blend well. Add flour mixture and stir together. Stir in millet, mixing well.

Spoon batter into 12 buttered muffin cups, filling to top. Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick comes out clean when inserted in center of muffin, about 15 minutes. Gently run table knife around edge of each muffin to remove from pan. Place on rack to cool.

Makes 12 muffins.

Each muffin contains about:

299 calories; 192 mg sodium; 56 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.20 gram fiber.

BAKED APPLES WITH CREAM

4 pippin or Granny Smith apples

1/3 cup sugar plus more for topping

1/2 cup water

1/8 teaspoon salt

Peel of 1 lemon, cut into large strips

1/2 cup whipping cream

Peel top third of apples and core.

Bring sugar, water, salt and lemon peel to boil in small pan; stir and remove from heat.

Set apples upright in baking dish just large enough to hold them and pour syrup over. Cover (use foil if there is no lid that fits) and bake at 350 degrees until apples are easily pierced with tip of knife, 30 minutes.

Spoon some of syrup over apples and sprinkle little sugar over top. You may put them under broiler for 2 minutes to lightly brown.

Spoon 2 tablespoons cream over each serving. Serve warm.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

232 calories; 85 mg sodium; 41 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 35 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.60 gram fiber.