Following the Footsteps of Darwin and the Booby - Los Angeles Times
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Following the Footsteps of Darwin and the Booby

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About 600 miles west of Ecuador, the tips of volcanic mountains rise out of the sea to form the Galapagos, an archipelago of 16 islands and more than 40 islets. It was here, in 1835, that Charles Darwin studied the unique wildlife and developed his theories on evolution.

Much of the islands’ appeal is the abundance of wildlife that shows no fear of humans. Sea lions frolic in the surf with swimmers alongside powder-fine beaches and booby birds with brilliant blue feet stand on footpaths while visitors to step over them.

The Ecuador Youth Hostel Assn. has arranged a special rate of $740 for a four-night Galapagos visit. This fee includes the flight from Quito, the $80 tax charged to all visitors to the Galapagos, accommodations, meals, bilingual guide services and daily cruising. The day cruises are aboard the Delfin II, which is 120 feet long and carries 36 passengers. This special rate is available to Hostelling International members who book their trip through the Quito YouthHostel. The regular fee for the four-night cruise ranges from $756 to $987. Return air fares, booked 21 days in advance, range from $289 to $377.

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The drawback of the discounted program is that travelers spend a lot of time at sea going to and from various sights and the hotel each day. Every night they return to the Hotel Delfin, located at Academy Bay on the island of Santa Cruz, which is near the Darwin Research Station. Visitors, who pay full fare, stay on the boats, and sail to each destination at night, heading out to explore first thing each morning.

There are 110 boats operating in the Galapagos. Cruises average from $80 to $200 per day. There are some budget boats as low as $50 per day, but local cruise crews warn that you may be in cramped quarters with eight passengers sharing a single shower. Local guides advise budget travelers to visit various agents in Quito and compare deals. If your time is limited, you can arrange the discounted deal through the Quito hostel before you leave home by using the Hostelling International reservation network.

An inter-island ferry also operates between four of the main islands, but the service is only available once a week. The average cost of travel between the main populated islands is about $20.

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Do not store your passport in Quito, you will need it to enter the Galapagos.

For further information, contact the Quito Youth Hostel at Pinto 325 y Reina Vitoria, near Amazonas Ave., telephone 011-593-2-543-995.

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