Shortcuts to Comforting Classics : Some frozen vegetables are worthy substitutes that save preparation time without sacrificing quality.

Cooking one of the classics is a good way to satisfy the need to nestle up to something familiar, comforting and tasty during the cold season, when we like to lie low and simplify. But some of these time-honored dishes require days of running around shopping for various ingredients and even more time spent chopping, peeling, stewing and assembling.

The solution is easy: Taking a few shortcuts that reduce the time in the kitchen without detracting from the quality of the dish.

Some frozen vegetables are acceptable; others are really terrible. Beans are always OK, and frozen corn is usually better than corn out of season. Okra is hard to find fresh in many markets, so frozen is fine; people with an aversion to okra may like it better because it is not gooey, as fresh tends to be.

Canned tomatoes in winter are also preferred to the hard, unripe, treated ones we find in the stores. Canned chicken stock is a real time saver and fine when used in a hearty dish like this, although be wary when adding salt.

CHICKEN GUMBO

1 pound thick-sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 medium boiling onions, diced

4 cloves garlic, chopped fine

3 bay leaves

1 1/2 tablespoons dried thyme

2 (28-ounce) cans chopped tomatoes

6 cups chicken broth

1 cup rice

1/2 pound frozen okra

1 (10-ounce) package frozen lima beans

1 pound frozen corn kernels

2 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

4 teaspoons file powder, optional

1/2 cup water

Salt, pepper

Cayenne pepper

Cook bacon in skillet until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and set aside. Discard all but 1/4 cup bacon fat.

Cook onions, garlic, bay leaves and thyme in 1/4 cup bacon fat over moderate heat 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add tomatoes, chicken broth and rice. Bring to boil over high heat. Cook 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until rice is tender.

Add okra, lima beans, corn, chicken and reserved bacon. Reduce heat to medium-high and cook 10 minutes until chicken is just done and vegetables are heated through. Dissolve file powder in water and add to stew. Mix well. Remove bay leaves. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

* Note: Add file only to portion you are serving. Reheating gumbo with the file powder tends to make stew stringy.

SEAFOOD AND SAUSAGE PAELLA

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons saffron threads

6 cups chicken stock

2 large onions, cut in small dice

5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/3 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 teaspoons dried thyme

2 teaspoons dried basil

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons black pepper

2 cups short-grain rice

1 pound frozen peas

1 pound medium-large prawns, shelled and deveined

1 pound linguica sausage, cut lengthwise and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces

2 pounds small mussels, cleaned

Dissolve saffron in chicken stock. Set aside.

Cook onions and garlic in olive oil over high heat 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add reserved chicken stock and saffron, oregano, thyme, basil, salt pepper, rice and peas. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to moderate and cook, uncovered, 10 minutes.

Add prawns and sausage and mix well. Place mussels on top of rice mixture and cover with tight-fitting lid. Cook 5 to 7 minutes or until mussels have opened. Discard any mussels that do not open. Serve immediately.

Makes 8 servings.

TURKEY AND VEGETABLE POT PIES

5 tablespoons butter

6 tablespoons flour

4 1/2 cups chicken broth

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried sage

1 teaspoon paprika

3/4 pound cooked turkey breast, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 (10-ounce) packages frozen mixed vegetables, thawed, or 2 cups blanched fresh vegetables like broccoli and carrots

Salt, pepper

1 (17 1/4-ounce) package frozen puff pastry

Melt butter in small heavy-bottomed saucepan over moderate heat. Mix in flour and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until roux is medium-brown and smells toasty, about 20 minutes. Add broth, a little at a time, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Bring to boil over high heat, stirring constantly.

Reduce heat to moderate and cook 20 to 25 minutes or until sauce is thick and has lost raw-flour taste. Add thyme, sage and paprika. Add cooked turkey and vegetables and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon into 4 (2-cup) baking dishes or 1 large casserole. Using 1 sheet of puff pastry, cut shape to fit top of baking dish(es). Place over filling. Bake at 400 degrees 15 to 20 minutes or until pastry is golden brown and filling is hot. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.