Pinot Hollywood Has Flavor of Winner in Decor and Menu

In the midst of planning the catering for this year’s Emmys (where he got into a big on-camera food fight with host Cybill Shepherd--scripted, of course), Joachim Splichal was also putting the finishing touches on his latest Patina spinoff, Pinot Hollywood, which follows Pinot Bistro in the San Fernando Valley and Cafe Pinot downtown.

This Pinot is dubbed a Parisian-style brasserie. And it feels like one, with its Art Nouveau decor, vaulted skylight and cozy banquettes. Black-and-white photos of Paris scenes snapped by Henri Cartier-Bresson and Robert Doisneau give the restaurant even more of a French flavor. And the menu? It’s full of delicious-sounding bistro food. To start, you can order four kinds of oysters on the half-shell at only $1 apiece, a perfectly credible version of salade lyonnaise (that’s curly endive with lardons and poached eggs in a puckery vinaigrette), a lovely fritto misto (mixed fry) of fish, shrimp and calamari with a crock of aioli. From the restaurant’s oak-fired grill come thick, juicy double pork chops, giant prawns with garlic and lemon butter, and whole grilled fish for two. And like typical brasseries, this one has specials for every day of the week. On Fridays, it’s fingerling potatoes and bacon salad with grilled half-smoked salmon.

Better reserve ahead, because Pinot Hollywood is a keeper. You’d never guess the place is only one week old from the quality of food chef Jon Fernow, previously executive chef at Patina, is turning out. It’s already as good--if not better--than its two siblings. Score one for Hollywood.

* Pinot Hollywood, 1448 N. Gower St. (213) 461-8800. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday, for lunch Monday through Friday. Major credit cards accepted. Appetizers $5 to $8.95; entrees $14.50 to $18.95. Valet parking.