INSIDE & OUT : Wood Needs Treatment Before It’s Top-Coated
Q: I recently refinished an oak table, and, while it now looks great, it doesn’t feel great. I was careful and did all the steps, including stripping, staining and finishing with three coats of urethane. However, when I run a hand over the wood, I feel little pricks. What can I do to make it smooth?
F.C.
Newport Beach
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A: Your problem is probably one of two things, says Jim Grant of Dutch Boy Home Decorating Center in Santa Ana. Either you didn’t sand well enough between coats of urethane, or you need to treat your open-grained wood table before it’s top-coated.
As for the work between coats, you may want to try a 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Put some paint thinner on the surface of the wood and sand it wet with the grain. The thinner acts as a lubricant, and, as you’re sanding, you’ll notice the rough points in the finish. As those areas become frictionless, you can move to another area.
Oak, mahogany and ash are examples of open-grained woods, which means the grains have little pits and scars that can leave a rough area. A paste wood filler is often used to fill the grains of those woods to smooth them out.
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Q: We were given some used bricks that we want to use for a new fireplace hearth and mantel, but there’s still some mortar on them. Is there an easy way to remove the mortar?
T.I.
Huntington Beach
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A: Use a brick hammer or a brick set, which is a chisel, and carefully tap the old mortar off, says Steve Sink of Angelus Quarries in Santa Ana. It’s not always easy to do, and, unfortunately, there isn’t any kind of solvent you can dump the bricks into to clean them up. Part of the reason that clean, used brick is so expensive is that it’s labor-intensive work.
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Q: I’ve got a slow tub drain that has one of those stoppers you push down to keep water in the tub. Using a plunger is tricky because it’s too easy to force the stopper down, and the liquid drain cleaners I’ve used don’t work. Any ideas?
C.S.
Tustin
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A: You probably have one of those push-down stoppers that uses a spring to engage and disengage, says plumber Alan Novato of Anaheim. With a large pair of channel lock pliers, grab onto the top and try turning it counterclockwise. You should be able to unscrew it from the base, which will allow you to use a plunger or a snake to remove the clog.
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Q: When I’m painting, how often should I stir the paint in the can?
D.D.
La Palma
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A: Before you start, give it a good shake, then stir it completely for five minutes, says painter Harry Ellis of Santa Ana. About every hour afterward, it wouldn’t hurt to give it a good stir. The more often you mix the contents of the can, the more uniform your color will be.
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Q: When the light hits a particular wall in my house, I can actually make out the shadows of some of the studs. It’s not a major problem; it’s more annoying than anything else. But is there anything I could coat the walls with to solve the problem?
B.B.
Anaheim Hills
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A: If it’s really bothering you, you could re-coat the wall with a thin layer of drywall, says Jim Gorman of Rancho Lumber in Westminster. It’s not uncommon to cover a wall up when you have wallpaper that’s too difficult to remove or if the present wall is damaged. By using 1/4-inch drywall, you’re not affecting the room’s dimensions much; go with 1/2-inch drywall to ensure the problem won’t reappear.
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If you have a question about your home or garden, A Helping Hand will help you find the answer. Send questions to: John Morell, Home Design, The Times Orange County, 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626.
