OFF THE CUFF : Manicurist Files Down ‘Madge Theory’

J ulie Walker, like Rodney Dangerfield, just can’t get any respect. The owner of Essence Nail Salon in Newport Beach, who has been a manicurist for 13 years, says it’s because of her profession, one that requires her to file 400 nails a week.

“It’s the Madge Theory: ‘You’re soaking in it,’ as if people think we’re soaking our heads. Like we’re little bubble heads.”

Actually, she says the job requires expertise. Walker went through 350 hours of class time studying diseases and conditions of the nail and bones in the hands, among other subjects, and had hands-on experience performing manicures, pedicures and other common procedures.

*

Although I’m fully licensed, I continue to attend advanced classes on nail care to update my skills. One class recently offered by the Red Cross was on “AIDS in the Workplace.” I don’t have AIDS, but I was concerned about the possibility of transmitting HIV from one client to another.

The Red Cross representative said the potential for transmitting the disease through what I do is slim to none. I very seldom cut anyone, and when I do, I either throw away the hand file or sterilize the instrument in an approved antiseptic that kills HIV. HIV is a fragile virus and can’t live long outside the body.

Some clients have purchased drill bits, files and nippers, and they bring these to me to use on them each time. I’ll gladly do it to ease their mind, but it’s not necessary because of the precautions I take. I try not to hurt anyone. I’m not into pain.

Something manicurists can do to hurt clients is ignore mold or fungus problems. If a natural nail is lifting off the nail bed, most of the time it’s because the artificial nail on top hasn’t been applied correctly.

Or a natural nail can lift up because of improper maintenance. Acrylic nails are designed to be filled once every two to three weeks at the most. The growth of the natural nail creates a gap between the cuticle and the acrylic nail and if you let that gap get too big, water can get underneath the acrylic and mold will grow in that warm, dark place.

Fungus is not something you get from artificial nails; people without artificial nails get it, too. Cocktail waitresses call it “bar rot”; it’s when the citric acid from lemons and limes eats away the soft tissue under natural nails. Gardeners get it from the soil and men and women get it by bumping their nails. Hard bumps tear the tissue underneath the nail, causing the natural nail to pop up and fungus to grow underneath. People call it “tennis toe” when it happens to their toenails.

The reason the new growth won’t adhere to the nail bed is because of fungus. Some manicurists cut back the natural nail, and that gets rid of the fungus and the new growth will lay flat in the nail bed. But I recommend my clients see a dermatologist. If the fungus is not treated, it can spread from nail to nail, and fungus can affect new growth if the nail recedes far enough.

Any artificial nail will do a small amount of damage to the natural nail, be it acrylics, silk, linens, fiberglass or gels. But none of it will affect new growth. Women think their natural nails will never be the same after they’ve taken off acrylic nails, but acrylics only weaken the exposed nail.

When women take their acrylics off, they have forgotten why they had them put on in the first place: because their nails were weak, chipped or wouldn’t grow. After having strong artificial nails that maintain the polish, they look at their flimsy natural nails and try to blame it on the acrylics. But artificial nails aren’t to blame.

Nails don’t have to be long to look good. They just need to be well groomed. If the cuticles are taken care of and if you have lotion on your hands and elbows, you’ll look nice. And any color looks nice if it’s applied correctly and not slathered over the cuticles.

Men come in for manicures for the same reason women do: It’s good grooming and it’s an hour of pampering, a chance to chill out from the hectic day.

Artificial nails are so common today, I’m already seeing my next generation of clients. Young girls see their mothers getting their nails done and they want it done, too. My mother, on the other hand, will only have her nails done on special occasions because she still thinks of it as a luxury. But this new generation sees it as something everyone does--my 2 1/2-year-old daughter, Jennifer, always has her nails polished.