Russell’s: Jackson Action

When it first opened, Russell’s, a small, romantic cafe on La Cienega Boulevard, had a lot going for it: young, rising-star chef Russell Jackson and a fine, small wine list. Recently it gained one more attraction: a serious beer list. It’s true there are lots of places with beer lists longer than a Tarkovsky screenplay, but they are normally the sort of places with burgers and ribs and boisterous bar scenes.

Russell’s is a fairly quiet, civilized room--the rowdiest patrons might be the group of doctors from Cedars-Sinai (“We’re foodies!� one boasts) who try to out-macho one another with details of their daily exercise regimens: “I do 120 pushups,� says one. “Well, I only do 100,� says another, “but I do them one-legged.�

And the food, as well as it matches a complex Chimay Ale, is equally suited to, say, a California Pinot Noir. Jackson has cooked in several L.A. restaurants, including Citrus and Rebecca’s, and it’s clear he’s learned a thing or two. His open-faced ravioli, influenced more by New Orleans than Milan, is sort of a shrimp etouffee with a tri-colored lid of large, crisp ravioli that are too doughy but beautiful to look at. On special one night he served baby back ribs, crisp-crusted and tender, on a bed of lentils and peppers--too sophisticated for a brew pub, too delicious to ignore. Not everything works as well. In a couple of years, Jackson may become a major chef in this town; right now he’s one to follow.

* Russell’s, 361 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 659-3996. Pasta and entrees $9-$17.