Drab ‘Remains’

The Movie: “Remains of the Day”

*

The Setup: The trio that brought you “A Room With a View” and “Howards End”--director James Ivory, screenwriter Ruth Prawer Jhabvala, producer Ismail Merchant--examines the efficient, unemotional life of Stevens (Anthony Hopkins, pictured), a dream of a butler in 1930s England. Lord Darlington (James Fox) is master, and Miss Kenton (Emma Thompson, pictured) is head housekeeper.

*

The Costume Designers: Jenny Beavan and John Bright, who shared an Academy Award for “A Room With a View.” The pair also designed costumes for “Maurice,” “The Bostonians” and “Howards End.” Bright, who owns the London costume house Cosprop, also did “The French Lieutenant’s Woman” and “Tess.”

*

The Look: Austere servant uniforms that carefully adhere to reams of restrictions for “downstairs” dress in ‘30s England. “Upstairs,” Lord Darlington looks typically tweedy and woolly.

The designers keep a lid on color, opting for a primary palette of black and white, to amplify Stevens’ emotionless life. When dressing female servants, they choose dreary prints instead of light florals, a subtle signal that the house is missing a woman’s influence. After teatime, the women change into black frocks.

Except for Miss Kenton. As head housekeeper, she is exempt from uniforms, aprons and evening duties. She wears mostly black, navy and maroon blouses, skirts and cardigans, with nary a stiff white shirt--too peppy, say designers.

*

Hit: The brash, American-style dress of Mr. Lewis (Christopher Reeve). He stands out among the dull Englishmen in his camel’s hair overcoat, cashmere cardigans, pin-striped suits and, with his button-down shirt, a silver tie.

*

Inspiration: Queen Elizabeth’s former butler, Cyril Dickman, provided information on strict wardrobe guidelines for servants. Historical books and photos of Lord Astor (of Waldorf-Astoria Hotel fame) provided additional images.

*

Quoted: “Cashmere is the kind of thing Americans wear. Good English Lords wear good English wool,” Beavan said, explaining the sartorial differences between Lord Darlington and Mr. Lewis.

*

Sources: Most of the principals’ costumes were new or vintage stock rented from Cosprop. At 6-foot-4, Reeve required special attention. His camel’s hair coat was purchased at High and Mighty, an English large-size chain; his suits were custom-made, and his cashmere cardigans came from Westaway & Westaway in London. Only his Brooks Brothers shirts are American.

* MOVIE REVIEW F1