THE WINE LIST

Step into Terrazza Toscana, and you instantly see all you need to know about the wine program. Stretching across the back wall is an impressive wine rack that reaches to the ceiling. Nearby is a bank of grills, the chic artillery of modern kitchens.

So what do you get when you order a bottle of great red wine? Warm wine. Ask for an ice bucket, and the waiter takes the wine and stashes it somewhere cool. When you get it back 15 minutes later, it’s still warm.

The list itself is a wonderland for those who like great red Italian wines. It is, however, a wasteland for those who have to pay for it. The 1988 Solaia has a suggested retail price of $85. It sells here for $160; 1988 Sassicaia is $160. By that standard, 1989 Ornellaia, at $72, is a bargain. Most of the other great wines are similarly expensive. Of the few reasonably priced wines, many are from less-than-great vintages.

Even the California reds leave something to be desired. There are 18 Cabernet Sauvignons (best value: 1989 Floreal, $20) but hardly any Zinfandels, wines that are perfect with pasta.