FASHION : Short Sightings

THE MOVIE: “Damage”

THE SETUP: A British fatal attraction occurs when the upstanding and very married Dr. Stephen Fleming (Jeremy Irons) begins an affair with Anna Barton (Juliette Binoche), his son’s girlfriend. His unsuspecting wife, Ingrid (Miranda Richardson), spends most of her time in the kitchen.

THE COSTUME DESIGNER: Milena Canonero, a two-time Oscar winner for “Barry Lyndon” and “Chariots of Fire.” For her most recent film, “Single White Female,” she was costume and production designer.

THE LOOK: Pay attention--Canonero sends out plenty of clues to identify the good, the bad and the ugly. And since the characters are extremely well-heeled, there’s plenty of good tailoring, expensive shoes and cashmere. A good clothes picture for sure.

THE WIFE: Poor Ingrid--the good--is a prime exception to the rule that blondes have more fun. Here, blond equals bland, and that’s how she figures in the scheme of this drama. In an unrelenting repetition of tasteful beige and taupe sweaters, suits and trousers, Ingrid simply disappears into the walls. To frump her up and make her even more saintly, Canonero makes sure nothing fits provocatively close.

THE MISTRESS: Anna--the bad--is first glimpsed at a cocktail party wearing a simple tailored outfit of iridescent midnight blue. It doesn’t scream sexy, but it’s mysterious, exotic, bestial. She reveals no skin, wears little or no jewelry and has what can only be described as a boyish haircut dyed a deep black, the mainstay color in her wardrobe. She’s about as soft as a stealth bomber, with a defining look--belted coats in many variations--that summons images of spies and secret missions. One version is a short black leather zippered model worn with the collar bent up to the ears; another has an oxblood fur collar and cuffs.

Notice, too, that Anna’s skirts are short, and she always wears black tights and spike heels. It’s simply impossible not to recall Canonero’s last female protagonist, the good-hearted Bridget Fonda in “Single White Female,” who also sported a short haircut (though feathery and reddish), dark belted jackets and short skirts--but no stockings. The elements add up to Canonero’s unbeatably smart silhouette for a young, contemporary woman.

THE UNFAITHFUL: Irons’ uniform of dark gray and blue business suits may appear insignificant, but it eventually traps him. In a key tragic scene, his striped cotton business shirt resembles nothing other than prison stripes.

TRY THIS AT HOME: Anna proves that garterless stockings do have staying power.

A MOMENT OF CHIC: Leslie Caron, as Anna’s Auntie Mame-ish mother, turns up briefly in hotblooded ensembles of tangerine and gold by Christian Dior Couture plus heavy-duty Cartier jewelry.

HEMLINE WATCH: Several inches above the knee.