Formalities

Other than weddings, the only occasions when the modern male dons his tuxedo is if he’s a professional M.C., first violinist for the philharmonic or attending a celebrity roast. But then, there is always New Year’s Eve.

The tuxedo has kept its basic form despite some inept variations--horrible ruffled shirts and bow ties with blades the size of classroom blackboards. Some designers have even changed the simple and elegant color of the white shirt. Colors varied from tranquil aqua blue to shocking orange. Unless you’re this year’s honorary leader of the Guy Lombardo Orchestra, the clean and simple elegance of the traditional tuxedo is best.

Tasteful trappings

* Dress shirts:

Should not have buttons but use studs instead. Also, shirt should have french cuffs for cuff links.

* Cuff links and studs:

Black onyx, mother-of-pearl, pearl or white gold.

* Bow tie:

Should be made of the same material as the coat or lapel.

* Suspenders:

Use those that button to inside of trousers not clip-ons.

* Cummerbund:

As with the bow tie, match with the material used in the lapel.

* Pocket square:

Though white linen is more traditional, the added dash of brightly colored silk is also acceptable.

* Overcoat:

A black dress coat or evening cape.

* Scarf:

White silk.

* Gloves:

Gray suede.

* Socks:

Though black silk is preferable, those made from ordinary material will do. In either case, use socks that extend over the calf.

* Shoes:

The black patent leather pump (a low-cut slip-on) with a grosgrain flat bow at the toe is traditional formal wear. As this might be objectionable to some, a patent leather laced shoe or highly polished Oxford will do.

Source: Dress for Excellence, Lois Fenton; Man at His Best, the editors of Esquire Magazine.