The Big Squeeze

The best visual aid in cow appreciation is at the Los Angeles County Fair (through Oct. 4), at the Model Dairy in the cattle barn behind the racetrack. Curious milk drinkers fill the bleacher stands four times daily to watch live cows milked. Four demo bossies are herded into stalls and assume the milking position--rumps forward, perhaps so shy cows don’t have to face the audience.

Young volunteers from Alta Dena Dairy prep the cows and hook them up to a milking contraption (hand-milking went out years ago). Then a familiar booming voice is heard over a loudspeaker: “Hello, everybody. George Putnam here, coming to you by tape.� The veteran newsman describes the action from pre-milking feeding (“You see, the grain aids in calming the cow�) to cleanup. Special attention is paid to what Putnam calls “priming the cow,� the cleaning and pre-hookup squirts that, Putnam says, “permit rapid and complete milking. If the cow is frightened or disturbed at milking time . . .� well, it’s just not in a giving mood.

Putnam’s parting words: “Remember, put the squeeze on a cow: Drink milk.�