Beaded Garments: How to Do It Yourself

Beaded garments, favored by royalty since ancient days, have a timeless appeal. But such embellishments must be applied by hand, which is why beaded garments are so expensive.

According to Alexis Silver, a film studio dressmaker whose latest project is an aqua blue, hand-beaded dress for Madonna’s upcoming film “Body of Evidence,” you can bead your own clothing and, in the process, unwind at the end of the day.

“Beading requires concentration and attention to detail,” Silver said. “That’s why people find it so enjoyable. It allows them to clear their minds and step out of their daily stresses for a while.”

Silver, who teaches beading at Piecemakers Country Store in Costa Mesa, suggests starting with a simple project, such as a scarf. Take your time in selecting the beads, and don’t rush to finish.

Beading over the existing pattern on a print scarf can add rich texture and contrast to the print. “It also saves the beginner from having to design a pattern, which can be a little overwhelming at first,” Silver said. From there, it’s easy to advance to custom-beaded blouses, evening bags, T-shirts and sweat shirts.

Her book, “Beautiful Beading,” available at Piecemakers for $10, explains the basics.

What You Need to Get Started TYPES OF BEADS Seed beads and pearls: Round Bugle beads: Tubular Faceted sequins: Flat or cupped; these catch the light nicely Paillettes: Similar to flat sequins, but not faceted Semiprecious stones: Crystal drops and beads made of such stones as amethyst, rose quartz and mother of pearl also available Sew-on jewels, studs and rhinestones: They add additional glamour, sparkle OTHER SUPPLIES Beading needles: Thinner than regular sewing needles; longer ones used to pick up lots of beads at one time; shorter ones used for sewing on individual beads, especially when there is little space in between Fine polyester thread: Best to avoid knots and shredding Step-by-Step Beading The No Knot technique helps avoid lumps and tangles by keeping the underside of the fabric smooth. 1. Leaving a tail of thread on the wrong side of material, make two or three small stitches until thread is secure. 2. Clip thread tail. Small stitches on right side of material will be covered by beads. Picking up beads It is easier to pick up the bead with a needle than to bring the bead to the needle. Beads can be spread out on a cloth or paper towel so they do not roll away.

ROUND BEADS

Sew on with a backstitch so the hole in the center of the bead is less likely to show from the top. Method I shows how to sew beads slightly apart; Method II shows sewing them straight in a row.

Method I

1. Secure thread with No Knot technique.

2. Bring needle up through material where you want the first bead.

3. Put one bead on needle and pull thread down toward material.

4. Put needle through material behind first hole the full width of a bead. This will result in a backstitch. Pull thread tight.

5. Bring needle up through material where you want next bead placed. To avoid puckering the fabric, space between beads shouldn’t be more than half an inch.

6. Repeat from step 3. Method II

1. Secure thread with No Knot technique.

2. Bring needle up through material where you want the first bead.

3. Put three beads on needle and pull down thread to material.

4. Put needle through material at end of last bead.

5. Bring needle up through material at first bead.

6. Put needle through all three beads.

7. Repeat from step 3.

BUGLE BEADS

Method I shows how to attach tubular beads lengthwise in a row; Method II shows side by side.

Method I

1. Secure thread with No Knot technique.

2. Bring needle up through material the full distance of the bead from the point where you want beadwork to start.

3. Put bead on needle and pull down thread to material.

4. Put needle through material at end of bead. Pull thread tight.

5. Bring needle up full distance of next bead to be sewn on from last bead.

7. Repeat from step 3. Method II

1. Sew first bead in place.

2. Judge distance of next bead to be sewn on. This distance can be half the diameter of the bead or a little more, depending on the affect you are trying to achieve.

3. Sew second bead in place.

4. Repeat.

FLAT SEQUINS AND PAILLETTES

Sequins and paillettes may be sewn next to each other or overlapping.

1. Secure thread with No Knot technique.

2. Bring needle up through material at point where you want first sequin or paillette to sit.

3. Pick up sequin or paillette with needle, pull down thread to material.

4. Put needle through material at edge of sequin or paillette and in the same direction as the remaining work to be done.

5. Bring needle up through material half the distance of the sequin or paillette from edge of last sequin or paillette if you want them placed side by side. If you want them to overlap, bring the needle up through the material at the edge of the last sequin or paillette.

6. Repeat from step 3. CUPPED SEQUINS

These must be attached with the cup facing outward. A seed bead in a matching or complementary color is used to secure them to the fabric.:

1. Secure thread with No Knot technique.

2. Bring needle up through material where you want the first sequin.

3. Pick up sequin with needle from back or outside of cup.

4. Pick up seed bead with needle.

5. Pull sequin and bead down thread to material

6. Put needle through sequin only, and pull thread through.

7. Judge half the distance you want the next sequin to sit and bring needle up through material

8. Repeat from step 3.

Source: “Beautiful Beading,” by Alexis Silver