Smoking Jacket Required

Most people think of barbecues as rough-and-tumble rather than sedate and civilized. Definitely informal. Yet there are occasions when the ease and delicious taste associated with grilled food works well in more formal situations.

The recipes that follow take elements from a barbecue dinner prepared by some friends of ours. Their simple cocktail food featured cheese and crackers as well as peeled, cooked shrimp accompanied by a delicious Cognac sauce. The leg of lamb was cooked in a very clever manner--after the first slices were served, the meat went back on the grill to cook the very rare meat next to the bone somewhat longer, perfectly flavored by the marinade that was brushed over it. The vegetables were a gratin of potatoes and baked cauliflower. Dessert came in two forms, vanilla and chocolate: two light, smooth, utterly irresistible mousses.

The wine made a difference too: a wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon from California or France.

This dipping sauce should be mixed several hours ahead to let the flavors blend. It’s a great complement to shrimp as well as crab meat.

BERNIE’S COGNAC COCKTAIL SAUCE

1/2 cup light mayonnaise

5 tablespoons catsup

2 1/2 tablespoons Cognac

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

Combine mayonnaise, catsup, Cognac and curry powder in small bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate several hours before serving. Makes 1 cup, enough for 24 large cooked shrimp, 6 servings.

Each serving, without shrimp, contains about:

106 calories; 270 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

The secret to the incredible flavor of this meat is trimming all the surface fat from the lamb (which should be young and top-quality), then coating the exposed meat with marinade. Without the layer of fat, the meat cooks much more quickly, in about 50 to 60 minutes for medium-rare. Our friend starts the marinating process three days ahead, but the meat can be successfully marinated for several hours on the day it’s cooked.

BERNIE’S BARBECUED LEG OF LAMB, BATHED IN THYME, OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC

1 whole leg of lamb, about 7 pounds, trimmed of all visible surface fat

12 large cloves garlic, peeled

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons dried thyme

2 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper

10 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed from stems

Fresh thyme sprigs, for garnish

At least 6 hours and up to 3 days before cooking, wash lamb and dry well with paper towels. Place lamb on piece of heavy-duty foil.

Cut 4 garlic cloves into very thin slices. With tip of sharp paring knife, make little slits about 2 inches apart over surface of lamb, just large enough to hold slices of garlic. Insert garlic slice into each slit, aided by knife tip.

Place dried thyme, pepper and fresh thyme in blender or mini-processor. Mix until garlic and thyme are minced. Reserve 1/3 cup garlic mixture for second step of cooking lamb, after first slices are served. Brush some of remaining garlic mixture over entire surface of lamb. Pull up sides of foil to conform to lamb as garlic mixture drains down. If preparing day of serving, leave lamb at room temperature. Brush on garlic mixture periodically until all is used. If preparing 1 to 3 days in advance, brush on some of mixture each day and keep refrigerated. Before cooking, leave at room temperature for several hours.

To barbecue, prepare grill for indirect cooking and high heat. Barbecue meat over indirect heat until cooked to desired doneness, about 50 to 60 minutes for medium-rare (about 125 degrees on instant-reading thermometer), turning meat often and brushing on marinade that dripped into foil.

To serve, slice meat for first servings and garnish with thyme sprigs. Put leg of lamb back over indirect heat, brushing on reserved marinade and turning once. Slice meat for additional servings. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

603 calories; 198 mg sodium; 203 mg cholesterol; 36 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 66 grams protein; 0.1 gram fiber.

This is a classic French potato dish, a perfect accompaniment to barbecued leg of lamb. Fortunately, it can be prepared a day ahead and popped into the oven about 45 minutes before serving. The thin slicing disc of a food processor eases the preparation of this dish.

GRATIN OF POTATOES

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 large Spanish onion, split and thinly sliced

2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1 1/2 cups plus 3 tablespoons half and half

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add garlic and onion. Cook, uncovered, until onion is tender, about 5 minutes, stirring well to avoid any browning. Add potatoes, 1 1/2 cups half and half, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Stir to combine, separating any potato slices that stick together. Cook over medium heat until liquid thickens, about 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to greased 6- to 7-cup shallow oven-proof baking dish. Use spatula to smooth surface. Add remaining half and half over surface. Can be prepared day ahead, then stored in refrigerator, covered airtight.

Bake, uncovered, on middle rack of 350-degree oven, until bubbly and light brown, about 30 minutes. Increase oven heat to 450 degrees. Bake until potatoes are deeply browned, about 15 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes before serving. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

191 calories; 321 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.5 gram fiber.

This is a most seductive, lightly flavored silken chocolate mousse, not as intensely chocolate as most. It’s best made a day in advance. My friend Iris uses Sarotti chocolate, a fine-quality German chocolate; buy the best that you can find. Serve the mousse family-style in an attractive 5- to 6-cup dish.

IRIS’ MILKY CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

3 1/2 ounces milk chocolate, broken into pieces

3 1/2 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into pieces

3 large eggs, separated

Dash salt

1 cup whipping cream, chilled

Melt chocolates in top of double boiler over hot, not boiling, water, stirring often. As soon as chocolates are melted, transfer to 5- to 6-cup serving dish. Set aside to cool.

Use fork to froth egg yolks. Use rubber spatula to combine egg yolks with cooled chocolate. Beat egg whites with salt until they hold their shape but are still moist and shiny. Use spatula to stir 1/4 egg whites into chocolate mixture. Fold in remaining whites. Whip cream until thickened. Fold into chocolate mixture. Use spatula to smooth surface. Clean edges of bowl with paper towels. Cover with plastic. Refrigerate overnight. Serve chilled. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

260 calories; 77 mg sodium; 124 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0 fiber.