In the Raw : Crudites: Not the usual--and boring--carrot and celery sticks. These vegetables are dressed in good taste.

When I encounter crudites at parties, I am often disappointed at what they turn out to be--thick carrot and celery sticks and big raw cauliflower and broccoli florets served with dip. Some of the guests nibble halfheartedly on the vegetables because they’re “good for you.� I always wish the crudites would be the kind I enjoyed in Paris.

The French word crudite comes from cru , meaning raw. When prepared the classic way, this dish is a beautiful array of salads, each of a single raw vegetable, that are served side by side. The vegetables are grated or cut into fine pieces and seasoned carefully with a little vinaigrette, the basic oil-and-vinegar dressing.

There are a few exceptions to this formula. The platter sometimes features a salad of a cooked vegetable, usually beets--which in France are sold at the market already cooked--or potatoes. Cucumbers might come with a creamy dressing instead of a vinaigrette, while celery root is moistened with mustardy mayonnaise. Baby radishes, small, flavorful black olives from Nice or hard-cooked eggs might garnish the plate.

People in North Africa and the Middle East also love crudites. In these areas the salads are seasoned differently from those in France. Some might be spicy or tangy, like the Moroccan carrot salad below.

Crudites are one of the most convenient appetizers for picnics. The salads can be prepared ahead and each kept in its own container. All you need to do at serving time is spoon them onto a platter or plates.

For a time-saving tip when preparing crudites , don’t forget the food processor. Perhaps you remember when these appliances first came out and demonstrators impressed us by reducing cabbages or several pounds of carrots to shreds in no time. This is still one of the best uses of the processor, and it certainly makes preparing vegetables as crudites a snap.

This is an easy appetizer to prepare. You make a batch of vinaigrette and season each type of vegetable with it. It’s good to have at least three kinds of vegetables for a colorful platter. Of course, each vegetable also makes a good salad on its own. For accompaniment, serve fresh French or Italian bread.

CRUDITES

(French Salad Platter)

Vegetables--at least 3 of following:

4 large carrots

1/2 small head green cabbage

1 pound ripe tomatoes

3 sweet red, green or yellow peppers

1 large cucumber

2 pounds potatoes

5 or 6 medium (1 1/2-inch-diameter) beets

Vinaigrette Dressing

3 to 5 tablespoons chopped parsley (if using tomatoes, potatoes and beets)

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped green onions (if using tomatoes and potatoes)

1 to 2 tablespoons thin strips fresh basil (if using tomatoes)

2 to 3 teaspoons snipped chives (if using cucumber)

Baby radishes, hard-cooked eggs, oil-cured or Kalamata olives, optional

Prepare each vegetable. Use amounts of Vinaigrette Dressing indicated as guide, but add enough just to moisten. Taste each salad for seasonings after mixing with vinaigrette. Spoon side by side on platter and add garnish as desired with baby radishes, hard-cooked eggs or olives.

Beets--cook, peel and slice or dice. Combine with about 1/4 cup vinaigrette and 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped parsley.

Peppers--cut into strips or dice. Mix with 3 to 4 tablespoons vinaigrette.

Cabbage--shred into thin strips. Toss with 6 or 7 tablespoons vinaigrette.

Carrots--coarsely grate. Mix with about 1/4 cup vinaigrette.

Cucumber--cut into thin slices and toss with about 2 tablespoons vinaigrette and 2 or 3 teaspoons snipped chives.

Potatoes--cook, peel and dice. Mix gently with 6 to 8 tablespoons vinaigrette and 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped parsley and 1 or 2 tablespoons green onions.

Tomatoes--prepare at last minute. Slice and arrange on dish. Sprinkle with 2 or 3 tablespoons vinaigrette and with 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, green onion or thin strips basil.

Makes total amount of 10 to 12 servings, or 3 to 4 individual servings of each vegetable.

Vinaigrette takes only a minute to prepare. It should be generously seasoned so it can flavor the salad ingredients. You can whisk one or two tablespoons Dijon mustard with the vinegar, if desired. Fresh lemon juice can be substituted for the vinegar.

Vinaigrette Dressing

1/2 cup white wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 cups olive oil or vegetable oil

Whisk vinegar with salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in oil. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Transfer to jar, cover and refrigerate. Dressing keeps several weeks. Whisk again before using. Makes 2 cups.

With a much lower proportion of oil than vinaigrette, this lemony dressing provides a delightful balance to the sweetness of the carrots so that the salad is quite tangy. It makes a pretty addition to a selection of salads for a colorful first course or a good accompaniment for cold meats.

MOROCCAN CARROT SALAD

1 pound (about 6 medium) carrots, coarsely grated

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce or generous amount freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro or parsley

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Dash salt

Cilantro or parsley sprigs

Mix together carrots, garlic, hot pepper sauce, chopped cilantro, lemon juice, olive oil and salt. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Serve on flat plate, garnished with cilantro sprigs around edges. Makes 4 servings.