THE RAFT RESTAURANT

Located just a few streets down from kitschy restaurants such as the Cannery and the Crab Cooker, the Raft Restaurant is easy to miss. And the faded cursive lettering painted on the front window is a sure indicator you won’t find an attendant in the washroom. You can, however, expect some surprises as soon as the screen door squeaks closed behind you.

First, there’s no black-clad hostess asking you to wait patiently at least half an hour for any available table when what you really want is a table with a classic Newport Harbor view, and soon. At the Raft only waterfront patio seating is available. There are no waiters bearing sticker-shock menus and a need to get to know you on a first-name basis. And you’ll find no string of support troops pouring water, busing tables and dishing out stone-cold pats of butter. Truth is, Hedi Apodaca, an affable German native, serves as owner, greeter, waitress, chef and dishwasher. She also seasons this tiny Cannery Row eatery with its Old World flavor.

“Twelve years ago, I fell into this business,� Apodaca said. “A cousin of mine found this place and, although I didn’t have any restaurant experience, something in me wanted to give it a try. My first thought was to keep everything very simple.� And she has been true to the concept.

Although the restaurant has a nautical name, don’t expect to find a fish-laden menu. The name came with the place, and doesn’t reflect the menu at all.

Over the years, Apodaca has put together a basic breakfast menu: you can get your eggs scrambled or you can have an omelette. You can have toast with that, too. And maybe some hash browns. That’s it. Lunchtime offers a smorgasbord of sandwiches, salads, pizza (made with Apodaca’s own pizza sauce recipe) and bowls of chili as thick as her Berchtesgaden accent. And she makes cheesecakes from scratch.

Dinner begins with a handwritten sign in the front window boasting “B-B-Q Dinner-Every Fri. & Sat. Nite.� And the simplicity begins again.

Apodaca sets out pots of homemade sauerkraut, baked beans, potato salad--and diners help themselves. Two entree choices complete the menu (chicken shish kabob served with bratwurst is a favorite among regulars). Out on the patio, Apodaca fires up the barbecue and proceeds to grill the meat to juicy perfection. Evening meals are strictly a summer luxury, and will end after Labor Day.

Long hours don’t appear to take any toll on the gregarious restaurateur. Dinner offers Apodaca a chance to chat with customers.

“It’s simple,� she said. “As long as the people are here, I’ll be here too. After that, I won’t be.� Variety may be the spice of life, but Apodaca has proven simplicity can be the main course.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

Address: 2816 Lafayette Ave., Newport Beach

Telephone: (714) 673-0793

Miscellaneous Information: Friday and Saturday night dinner is served only through Labor Day. Call ahead for reservations.