GOOD COOKING : Wrappers: Shortcuts at the Ready

Even the most serious cooks sometimes take shortcuts.

Ready-made wrappers--tortillas, filo, won ton skins, frozen pie and puff pastry and Mandarin pancakes--are the ultimate shortcuts. They eliminate complicated, time-consuming hands-on attention on the part of the cook, and make quick preparations appear far more complicated than they actually are.

Most wrappers freeze beautifully, allowing you to have them on hand for the most unexpected moments. Thaw them in the refrigerator and while still chilled pull out as much as you need; wrap the remainder in an airtight plastic bag and refreeze. (This thawing-freezing cycle can’t be repeated more than twice.)

The following quick preparations will help wrap up your summer cooking. These recipes begin with fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs and then rely on some type of ready-made wrapper to make them complete.

Here’s a quick, tasty recipe that relies on won ton wrappers for its lightness and ease of preparation:

HERB-CHEESE “CHIPS�

Olive oil, preferably light-tasting

Won ton wrappers

1 large clove garlic, minced

Salt

Imported grated Parmesan cheese

Minced fresh herbs (mix of basil, thyme, oregano and chives)

Place 2 teaspoons olive oil in jellyroll pan. Place pan in 450-degree oven to heat.

Meanwhile, cut won ton wrappers diagonally in halves to make triangles. Gently heat 1 tablespoon olive oil mixed with 1 large minced garlic clove in skillet. Do not boil. Strain out garlic.

Remove jellyroll pan from oven. Be sure oil in pan has coated surface of pan (tip pan, if necessary, to coat evenly). Arrange 12 won ton triangles in single layer on pan. Lightly brush won tons with warm garlic oil. Season to taste with salt. Generously season with cheese and mix of minced fresh herbs. Bake at 450 degrees until edges are well browned, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to cooling rack. Makes 24 “chips.�

A mixture of carrots, zucchini and mushrooms becomes a quick, satisfying supper when wrapped up in Mandarin pancakes. Years ago, I worked through 50 pounds of flour until I discovered the secret to a perfect, tender thin Mandarin pancake, only to find that most restaurants purchased them ready-made. (They are available in most Chinese markets.) When steamed until soft and supple, these commercially available pancakes are most satisfactory (and an incredible shortcut). The vegetables can also be served over steamed rice.

MOO SHU VEGETABLES

2 eggs

Salt

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 thin slice ginger root, minced

12 large green onions, thinly sliced

4 ounces napa cabbage, thinly sliced

1 medium carrot, peeled and shredded

12 small mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

2 small zucchini, cut into 1/3-inch dice

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar

Hoisin sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons dry Sherry

1 teaspoon cornstarch

Red pepper flakes

6 to 8 Mandarin pancakes, steamed

In small bowl beat eggs and 1/4 teaspoon salt with fork. Heat 1 tablespoon peanut oil in non-stick 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add eggs and scramble lightly, about 20 seconds. Use spatula to break eggs into small chunks. Set aside.

Heat remaining 1 tablespoon peanut oil in wok. Add garlic, ginger, green onions, cabbage, carrot, mushrooms, zucchini and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook over high heat until vegetables are hot, about 3 minutes, stir-frying to avoid burning.

Add soy sauce, vinegar, 1 1/2 tablespoons hoisin sauce, sugar, sesame oil and Sherry mixed with cornstarch. Combine well. Cook until liquid is thickened, about 3 minutes, stirring often.

Adjust salt and add red pepper flakes to taste. (Filling can be made in advance and gently reheated stovetop or in microwave oven.)

Place scant 1/2 cup hot vegetable mixture down middle of each steamed pancake. Bring 2 sides of pancake up to close, then bring ends over to seal package. Serve seam side up with hoisin sauce. Makes 3 to 4 main course servings, or 6 to 8 side dish servings.

Note: To steam pancakes on stovetop, place over boiling water in flat-bottom steamer. Cover and steam over moderate heat until pancakes are hot and soft, about 5 minutes. To steam in microwave oven, wrap in damp paper towels, place on microwave dish and heat medium power (50%) until warm, about 2 to 3 minutes, turning over mid-way. Wrap steamed pancakes in cloth towel to keep warm and soft until filled.

Fresh fruit tarts are the perfect summer indulgence -- especially when the pastry is ready-made . Another shortcut : It’s not necessary to peel the fruit in this recipe.

GLAZED PEACH-PLUM TART

1 refrigerated pie crust

6 medium peaches

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca

1/3 cup sugar

Dash salt

2 red plums

2 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons currant jelly

1/2 teaspoon water

Bake pie crust in 10-inch tart pan according to package instructions. Cool.

Coarsely chop 2 peaches to measure about 1 3/4 cups. Place in small bowl and toss with lemon juice. Add flour, tapioca, 3 tablespoons sugar and salt. Combine well. Let rest 15 minutes.

Thinly slice remaining peaches and plums. Spread chopped peaches in cooled pastry. Arrange peach slices decoratively on top, overlapping slices around outer edge in circle. Overlap plum slices decoratively in center.

Cut butter into small pieces and scatter over surface. Sprinkle with remaining sugar. Place tart pan on baking sheet.

Bake at 400 degrees until edges of fruit slices are browned, 55 to 60 minutes. Let cool on rack.

Melt currant jelly and water on stovetop or in microwave oven. Lightly brush on cooled tart, including edges of crust. Makes 1 (10-inch) tart or 6 servings.

A tortilla makes the thinnest pizza crust imaginable. And when baked until brown around the edges, it’s also the crispest. Vary the toppings according to taste, understanding that on such a thin base, less is indeed more. With a salad of mixed greens, the pizza makes a wonderful, light meal.

QUICK THIN-CRUSTED PIZZA WITH SAUSAGE, TOMATO AND HERBS

2 (7-inch) flour tortillas

Oil

1 1/3 cups shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese

1 (4-ounce) piece cooked Italian sausage or smoked sausage, cut into 8 thin slices

1 large plum tomato, cut into 8 slices

1/4 cup grated imported Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

Red pepper flakes

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs (mix of basil, thyme, oregano)

Place tortillas on oiled baking sheet. Divide 1/2 mozzarella cheese between tortillas, spreading evenly.

Arrange 4 sausage slices on each, spacing evenly 1/4-inch from edge. Place tomato slices between sausage. Top with remaining mozzarella cheese and Parmesan cheese. Drizzle each with olive oil. Season lightly with red pepper flakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bake at 400 degrees until cheese and tortillas are browned on edges, about 6 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with herbs. Let rest 5 minutes before serving. Makes 2 (7-inch) pizzas.