Remember Bastille Day : <i> When you want to eat more than cake on the 14th . . . </i>

La Bastille, 4857 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 962-3455. Style: A castle fit for a revolutionary dinner, ‘60s style. Setting: Red velvet, suits of armor, bridges and turrets. Recommended dishes: Onion soup; le tuna royal, marinated tuna wrapped in smoked salmon; les shrimps sans culotte, shrimp with dill and pernod, served with black angel hair pasta. Cost per person: $20-$35.

La Toque, 8171 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 656-7515. Style: California French for foodies. Setting: Normandy chic. Recommended dishes: 6-course Bastille Day dinner. Cost per person: $55.

Les Freres Taix, 1911 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 484-1265. Style: Old-fashioned French for wine lovers. Setting: Grotto. Recommended dishes: Duck cassoulet; bouillabaisse; roast chicken. Cost per person: $10-$25.

Salisbury Manor, 1190 W. Adams Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 749-1190. Style: Old-fashioned restaurant serving updated California/Continental. Setting: Restored historical house with stone facades and bay windows. Recommended dishes: Special 4-course Bastille Day dinner. Cost per person: $25.

Tulipe, 8360 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood. (213) 655-7400. Style: Proof that good French food need not cost a lot of money. Setting: Stark with large open kitchen. Recommended dishes: Blue cheese and pear tart; pig’s trotter with snails; braised veal shank. Cost per person: $20-$35