Michelin’s Newest Stars in France

The 1990 Guide Michelin for France was published March 12 and, as usual, contained a few surprises. Chief among these was the elevation of Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV at the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo to coveted three-star status. At 33, Ducasse is Michelin’s youngest three-star chef. The guidebook moved unusually fast in promoting him--he’s only been at the restaurant since 1986, and was virtually unknown before then.

The most famous chef in Ducasse’s neighborhood, Jacques Maximin, was doubtless surprised at Louis XV’s promotion, too. In his years at Chantecler in Nice’s Hotel Negresco, Maximin was given top status by almost everybody--except Michelin. The third star was withheld, according to widespread rumors, because his restaurant was part of a large hotel, and thus he couldn’t devote proper attention to each plate. Since the younger, less-famous Ducasse is also installed in a hotel dining room, another possibility has been raised: that the guidebook simply never thought Maximin quite good (or consistent) enough for three stars.

In any case, Maximin was given two stars for his new establishment in Nice, called simply Maximin. (Maximin was not elevated from one to two stars, as reported in the New York Times, incidentally, since his place opened only last year and didn’t appear in the ’89 Michelin.)

In other Michelin news, Oustau de Baumaniere in Les Baux-de-Provence was demoted from three to two stars--surprising no one. Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland, near Beaune, was among those elevated from one to two stars; Le Pre Catelan and Le Petit Bedon in Paris were among those demoted from two stars to one; and Amphycles, one of the hottest new restaurants in Paris, was given its first star--as did some 47 other places around France.

EAT TO GIVE: Friday, the Women’s Culinary Alliance hosts its second annual Dining for Dollars. It’s not a food and wine festival, but a program by which more than 40 L.A. area restaurants donate 10% of their gross dinner (or, if they’re not open for dinner, lunch) receipts to the Pediatric AIDS Foundation. Participants range from Jody Maroni’s Sausage Kingdom and Dem Bones Bar-B-Q Shack to Spago and Citrus. Others include Atlas Bar & Grill, Campanile, Beau Rivage, the Chin Chin restaurants, Indigo and Maxine’s Seafood Cafe. Lew Mitchell’s Orient Express and Palette will donate 15% of their dinner receipts, and Pennyfeather’s plans on giving 20%. Zabie’s in Santa Monica will serve a special sit-down dinner Friday and Saturday with all proceeds donated. And Salisbury Manor in Los Angeles will offer a special menu with entertainment; its waiters have agreed to donate their tips, too.

WINE DINNERS: Monday is a good night for wine drinkers. At Fino in Torrance, Chalone wines are featured at a $55-a-head wine dinner. . . . Also tomorrow, for $45 a head, Belle Vue in Santa Monica offers a six-course repast featuring Napa Creek wines.