Havens on Hillhurst

Some of L.A.’s most interesting restaurants are hidden on Hillhurst. Duplex, 1930 Hillhurst Ave. (213) 663-2430. Style: Serious food in a neighborly mood. Setting: Homey, with soft lights, mellow walls. Recommended dishes: Minced pork salad; duck and eggplant Charlotte; rabbit marinated in grappa with currents. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Katsu, 1972 Hillhurst Ave. (213) 665-1891. Style: L.A.’s artiest sushi bar. Setting: Extremely quiet and ultra-modern. Recommended dishes: Multi-course nightly dinner. Cost per person: $35.

SanSui, 2040 Hillhurst Ave. (213) 660-3868. Style: Japanese for the health conscious. Setting: Hospital white, with environmental music. Recommended dishes: 10-course vegetarian Kaiseki. Cost per person: $14.50.

Trattoria Farfalla, 1978 Hillhurst Ave. (213) 661-7365. Style: 20-seater storefront with good, simple food. Setting: Minimal. Recommended dishes: Any pizza or freshly made pasta. Cost per person: $10-$15.

Yuca’s, 2056 Hillhurst Ave. (213) 662-1214. Style: Where yuppies take out tacos. Setting: Food stand in parking lot. Recommended dishes: Cochinita pibil (steamed pork); machacha (shredded beef); carnitas (fried pork). Cost per person: $2-$6.