A Taste for Trattorias

A trattoria is a small, inexpensive restaurant in Italy. Or, for that matter, in Los Angeles. La Scala Presto Trattoria, 3821 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake. (818) 846-6800 Locations also in Brentwood, Encino, Malibu and Redondo Beach. Style: Casual offshoot of the Beverly Hills La Scala offering swell pizzas, pastas and salads. Setting: Fast food fancy. Recommended dishes: Caesar salad; linguine with clam sauce; Pizza Presto. Cost: $10-$15 per person.

La Trattoria, 8022 West 3rd St., Los Angeles.(213) 658-7607. Style: Invitingly chic with emphasis on grilled meats and fresh pastas. Setting: Spare beige and white, indirect lighting. Recommended dishes: Garlic zuppa ; grilled veal chop; grilled rosemary chicken; eggplant casserole. Cost: $15-$25 per person.

Louise’s Trattoria, 1008 Montana Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 394-8888. Style: Small, noisy, crowded yuppie hangout; perfect place to bring a 3-year-old. Setting: Lots of mirrors, 501s, BMWs out front. Recommended dishes: Roast chicken; pizza; marinated green bean salad. Cost: $7-$20.

Trattoria Angeli, 11651 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 478-1191. Style: Designer restaurant serving incredibly good regional Italian. Setting: High tech, high-ceiling; high chic. Recommended dishes: Olive al forno; calzone parmigiana; pizza in paradiso; biscotti . Cost: $14-$25

Trattoria Farfalla, 1978 Hillhurst Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 661-7365. Style: 20-seater storefront with good, simple food. Setting: Minimal. Recommended dishes: Any pizza or freshly made pasta; veal with rosemary and potatoes. Cost: $10-$15.