For a Power Lunch, a Powerful Chef

NEW YORK —  When John Patrick Doherty first read about the plans for this week’s meeting between President Reagan and Soviet President Mikhail S. Gorbachev, his thoughts quickly shifted to one major issue--what were they doing for lunch?

“I was wondering if they planned to meet at the Waldorf,” confessed Doherty, the head chef at the Waldorf-Astoria hotel and creator of the meal the two world leaders will share today.

“Last Wednesday, they asked me if I would be interested. I submitted three menus for approval. . . . They chose one on Friday,” said Doherty, 30, a Waldorf chef for the past 11 years and head chef for the last 3 1/2 years. “It was great. I was very happy.”

Cooking for Reagan and Gorbachev is no different from preparing any other meal--except for the presence of Secret Service agents in the kitchen, Doherty said Tuesday between samples of the wild mushroom ravioli that will be part of the lunch.

“As much attention and care as I’m giving this, you have to do that with everything,” Doherty said. “You don’t get a reputation for quality cooking, as a quality chef, by being super-creative. The truly good chefs, the quality of their preparation is top-notch.”

Initially, the White House had declared the luncheon menu off-limits to the news media until after the meal. But the restrictions were eased enough for Doherty to provide some details of what will be served.

First will come a chicken consomme and the wild mushroom ravioli, followed by tournedos or rounded filets of veal with smoked quail and lobster sausage, braised cabbage and leeks, roesti potatoes that are julienned and sauteed until crisp and sauteed fresh leaf spinach.

Wine will be a California Chardonnay. Dessert is a chocolate tart with almond cream cheese, fresh fruit and raspberry sauce.

Total preparation time for the lunch for 14 people will be about four hours, said Doherty, who was being assisted by two other Waldorf chefs. Final touches will be made at Governors Island, where the luncheon will be held.

Since Reagan generally stays at the Waldorf-Astoria when in New York, it will not be the first time Doherty has prepared a presidential meal. Reagan has twice personally complimented him on his cooking, the chef said.

“This style of cooking is what he prefers,” Doherty said of the President. “There are some guidelines for keeping his health in mind. . . . But I’ve done this many times.”