Fall Finery in Canyons of Sycamore

When the trail had climbed to a height of fifteen hundred feet, there opened a still more striking landscape. Nearby to the north rose the fine shape of Boney Mountain, its highest crags hidden in dragging mists. . . . More to the west, blue with summer haze, the wide valley stretched away to the Pacific, and between lay the expanse of rough, brushy hills through which I had to find a way.

--Joseph Smeaton Chase,

“California Coast Trails,” 1913

Trail writer-rider Joseph Smeaton Chase had a tough time finding his way through the west end of the Santa Monica Mountains. The tumbled-up hills and valleys between Little and Big Sycamore canyons were crisscrossed with cattle paths, which threw him off track.

Still, the beauty of the land we now call Boney Mountain Wilderness launched the British-born, Southern California-transplant author into paroxysms of purple prose.

A Tiny Cabin

Fortunately for Chase and Western literature, he spotted a small farm that belonged to old Jesus Serrano and his son, Francisco. The dirt-poor Serranos offered Chase all they had--a bed in their tiny cabin, one of their fine homemade Spanish cheeses and directions for getting back on the right trail.

Chase had a very pleasant time with the Serranos, and as he reports: “When I arose to go, the son offered to put me on a cut-off trail that would save me some miles. The old gentleman presented me with one of his cheeses, explaining that I must eat it with chili, and should find it good for my health.”

Francisco Serrano led Chase down the canyon that now bears his name and over to Big Sycamore Canyon, where there was a more distinct trail. Chase kept riding all the way to Oregon and wrote about his adventure in “California Coast Trails,” which was reprinted recently by Tioga Press of Palo Alto.

Preserved Area

Steep-walled Serrano Canyon and aptly named Big Sycamore Canyon are two wonderfully scenic destinations in Point Mugu State Park, the largest preserved area in the Santa Monica Mountains.

Autumn is a particularly good time to visit Big Sycamore Canyon, because migrating monarch butterflies arrive to form what entomologists call overwintering colonies. During the fall, Sycamore Canyon offers the twin delights of falling autumn leaves and fluttering butterflies.

Families with young children will enjoy a stroll through nearly level Big Sycamore Canyon. Experienced hikers will enjoy the climb through Serrano Canyon and the trek across Serrano Valley.

A warning: Autumn colors you might not be thrilled to see are the oranges, reds and crimsons of the poison-oak bushes that line Serrano Canyon. Wear long pants and a long-sleeved shirt when you hike through the canyon.

Directions to the trailhead: From the west end of the Santa Monica Freeway, continue up the coast on Pacific Coast Highway 35 miles to Big Sycamore Canyon Campground. The park service recently bulldozed away the dirt lot on which hikers had long been accustomed to parking, and erected a grove of no-parking signs. The vehicle day-use fee is $3 in the new lot.

The hike: Walk through the campground and join the fire road (closed to vehicles) that leads into Big Sycamore Canyon. Half a mile from the campground you will spot signed Overlook Trail, which switchbacks to the west up a ridge, and then heads north toward the native tall-grass prairie in La Jolla Valley. Make note of this fine trail for another day’s hike.

Another mile of nearly level canyon walking brings you to a signed junction with Serrano Canyon Trail. Join this trail, which soon enters its namesake canyon, a dramatic, water-cut, high-walled gorge. The trail is narrow and lightly traveled; also, it’s off limits to horses and mountain bicyclists.

The trail climbs moderately through a coastal-sage community and eventually works its way down to the creek at the bottom of the oak- and sycamore-lined canyon. First a footbridge, then some railroad-tie stairs on the creek banks help you across the creek.

The creek is sprightly, with pools in winter and spring, while in summer and autumn it flows with far less enthusiasm. The footbridge is as good a place as any to wiggle into those long pants for your upcoming meeting with the abundant poison oak that grows beside the creek.

Serrano Canyon Trail

Eight-and-a-half-mile loop through Point Mugu State Park; 1,100-foot elevation gain.