The following is a summary of a...

The following is a summary of a recent Times restaurant review.

PoFolks, 279 E. Orangethorpe Ave., Fullerton . (714) 992-1515. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

This PoFolks is the first of a projected 50 to be built in Southern California: The chain is off to a good start. This is a high-quality family restaurant, with prices so low they are frightening. Chicken and dumplings $1.19? Yes, you read it right. Some of the best things here are a giant bowl of seafood gumbo full of shrimp, rice, and chunked okra, at $2.19, and a lightly breaded chicken fried steak. Such accompaniments as corn muffins, biscuits, and many side vegetable plates all are done with skill. Just don’t ask anybody what a moon pie is. If you do, you’ll be sorry.