QUESADILLAS : Some decry the poetic license being taken with <i> quesadilla </i> recipes by several local chefs, but few will be able to resist the results of their creativity.

Even a simple recipe like quesadillas can reach new heights when placed in the hands of creative chefs. That’s precisely what’s happening in restaurants around Los Angeles.

Purists might argue that Rebecca’s deep-fried Spinach and Roasted Garlic Quesadillas are actually empanaditas. So be it. These hot, crispy turnovers are filled with sauteed spinach, roasted garlic, pasilla chile and Jack cheese. Frying browns the masa and melts the cheese inside. They’re served with Tomatillo-Cilantro Salsa.

Sabroso uses the same basic techniques to prepare their Blue Corn Harinilla Quesadillas, filled with refried black beans and Cheddar cheese. Harinilla is a fine grind of blue cornmeal, practically the texture of flour. If unavailable at markets, the restaurant sells it at $3 a pound. The Times Test Kitchen created a similar product by grinding coarser blue cornmeal in a food processor.

After watching Rebecca’s chef Bill Hufferd prepare their specialty, we referred to detailed written instructions from Janine Coyle of Sabroso and, with a little practice, were able to duplicate the procedure of forming and filling the tortillas (see step-by-step instructions, Page 11). A deep-fat fryer was used to control the temperature of the lard and oil during frying.

Brie and Papaya Filling

At Authentic Cafe, owner Roger Hayot and chef Gerard Burgos prepare a quesadilla filled with Brie cheese, finely diced papaya and, once again, pasilla chile. A traditional flour tortilla, topped with the filling ingredients, is warmed on the grill until the cheese begins to melt. Then it’s folded, cut and served with guacamole, sour cream and the restaurant’s freshly made salsa.

Papaya is also used in the relish served with the Leek and Goat Cheese Quesadillas at Sonora Cafe. There it’s combined with mango and strawberries and flavored with lime juice and chopped mint. Guajillo Chile Sauce is another accompaniment. If the canned chile pastes called for in this recipe are not available, make them by adding water to ground chiles; or soak whole chiles in warm water, then drain off almost all the liquid, peel chiles and remove the seeds before pureeing the pulp in a blender or food processor.

John Sedlar, in keeping with the style of food served in St. Estephe restaurant, combined his Hispanic heritage, French training and artistic touch to create Montrachet Cheese Quesadillas With Chanterelle Mushrooms, Fresh Herbs and Red Wine Sauce.

A French Touch

Sedlar begins with freshly made gorditas, the small, thicker flour tortillas whose name translates as “little fatties.� Montrachet goat cheese adds a French touch, as do the chanterelle mushrooms and red wine sauce under and around the baked gordita triangle.

Along the same vein, Elka Gilmore of Tumbleweed drew on her Texas roots to create the restaurant’s Quesadilla Filled With Brisket of Beef and Queso Anejo. Their beef is slow-smoked with hickory wood. It won’t be quite the same, but you can approximate this flavor with the recipe included for Smoked Hickory Brisket (or if in a big hurry, add a bit of liquid smoke to oven roasted brisket).

Commercially made corn tortillas may be substituted, but the freshly made version were preferred by our tasters. If queso anejo is not available, substitute queso fresco.

The Blue Crab and Black Bean Quesadillas of Ambrosia Caterers are one alternative from a quesadilla bar they set up at parties. Other items used to create custom quesadillas for guests include mushrooms, onion, chicken, crab and Mexican cheese. Guacamole, sour cream and salsa fresca are also on the bar, to be added as desired.

If the Louisiana blue crab called for in the recipe is not available, other fresh crab may be substituted. Here again, you may need to use queso fresco for the cheese. The Chipotle Sauce may be made by pureeing canned chiles.

REBECCA’S SPINACH AND ROASTED GARLIC QUESADILLAS

10 unpeeled cloves garlic

1 medium pasilla chile

1/2 large bunch spinach leaves

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 ounces grated Jack cheese

6 ounces fresh prepared masa

Melted lard or shortening for deep frying

Tomatillo-Cilantro Salsa

Roast garlic at 350 degrees 5 to 10 minutes or until soft. Peel, mince coarsely and set aside.

Roast chile over gas flame or hot coals until skin turns black and bubbles. Place in plastic bag and set aside 2 to 3 minutes. Rinse off blackened skin under running water. Remove seeds and core, then finely dice chile and set aside.

Clean and coarsely chop spinach leaves. Saute briefly in olive oil in large skillet or saute pan. Add salt, garlic and chile. Continue to cook over medium heat until spinach is fully wilted. Cool, then fold cheese into spinach mixture and set aside.

Knead masa dough with hands several minutes until smooth. Divide into 6 (1-ounce) balls. Place 1 portion between 2 plastic circles in tortilla press and press to 4-inch diameter. Peel off top plastic circle.

Scoop 1 rounded tablespoon filling and compress into oval in palm of hand. Place in center of masa round. Fold masa in half around filling and pinch edges through plastic to seal quesadilla in half moon shape.

Peel off plastic and place quesadilla on baking pan and cover with damp towel to protect moisture. Quesadillas are very delicate and should not be overlapped or stacked. Repeat procedure for remaining 5 quesadillas.

Meanwhile heat melted lard to 375 degrees over medium high heat. Fry quesadillas, few at time, 2 minutes or until golden brown on both sides, turning once. Drain on paper towels. Serve with Tomatillo-Cilantro Salsa. Makes 6 quesadillas.

Note: Fresh tortilla masa dough is available at Latin markets and in some supermarkets.

Tomatillo-Cilantro Salsa

5 tomatillos

1/4 small white onion, chopped

1/2 serrano chile, seeded and chopped

1 cup water, about

1/2 bunch cilantro

Salt

Peel and wash tomatillos. Combine in saucepan with onion, chile and 1 cup water. Simmer until dull in color and tomatillos are tender, about 10 minutes. Chill.

Wash cilantro, remove stems and dry. Combine with tomatillo mixture in food processor or blender and puree. Thin with water, if necessary, to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt. Refrigerate overnight to blend flavors. Makes about 2 cups.

AUTHENTIC CAFE QUESADILLA WITH PAPAYA AND BRIE

Margarine

4 (10-inch) flour tortillas

12 ounces brie cheese

1/4 to 1/2 cup coarsely chopped roasted pasilla chile

1 cup finely diced papaya

Guacamole

Salsa

Sour cream

Place 1 to 2 teaspoons margarine on warm grill or in 12-inch skillet or saute pan over low heat. Add 1 tortilla and top with 3 ounces brie cheese, 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped chile and 1/4 cup papaya. Allow cheese to melt about 3 to 5 minutes, then fold tortilla in half.

Remove from grill and cut into 5 pieces. Repeat procedure for remaining 3 quesadillas. Serve with guacamole, salsa and sour cream. Makes 4 servings.

ST. ESTEPHE MONTRACHET CHEESE QUESADILLAS WITH CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS, FRESH HERBS AND RED

WINE SAUCE

12 medium fresh chanterelle mushrooms

18 ounces Montrachet goat cheese

12 (6-inch) Gorditas

1 to 2 tablespoons butter

Salt

White pepper

Red Wine Sauce

Tarragon leaves

Basil leaves, cut julienne

18 cilantro leaves

Wash, pat dry and slice mushrooms. Spread 3 ounces cheese in center of 6 Gorditas. Top each with second Gordita and cut off edges to create 4-inch triangle shape. Place triangles on baking sheet and bake at 450 degrees 5 to 6 minutes.

Meanwhile saute sliced mushrooms in butter with salt and white pepper to taste. Drain on paper towels.

Spoon or pour 1/4 cup warm Red Wine Sauce onto plate. Top with Gordita triangle. Garnish with mushroom slices and tarragon, basil and cilantro leaves. Repeat procedure for remaining 5 quesadillas. Makes 6 servings.

Gorditas

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Dash salt

Lard

1/2 cup lukewarm water

Combine flour, baking powder and salt in mixing bowl. With fingertips, rub 2 teaspoons softened lard into dry ingredients. Slowly stir in water, then knead mixture briefly to make smooth, firm yet pliable dough. Cover dough with towel and let rest 30 minutes.

Divide dough into 12 walnut-size balls. Roll out 1 at time on floured surface with floured rolling pin to 6-inch diameter and 1/8-inch thickness.

Heat griddle over low to moderate heat. Brush with small amount lard. Cook gorditas until dark brown blisters form on undersides, about 30 seconds. Turn and cook about 30 seconds more. Wrap in towel to keep warm. Makes 12 gorditas.

Red Wine Sauce

4 cups red wine

9 shallots, peeled and quartered

5 bay leaves

2 tablespoons dried thyme

5 cups veal stock or unsalted chicken broth

1/2 pound unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons fresh dill tops

2 tablespoons tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons julienne cut basil leaves

Combine wine, shallots, bay leaves and thyme in saucepan. Bring to boil and reduce to 1 cup. Add veal stock and reduce to 1 1/2 cups. Strain and return sauce to pan.

Add butter in small pieces, using folding motion or whisking to incorporate into sauce. Add dill, tarragon and basil and heat through. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

SONORA CAFE LEEK AND GOAT CHEESE QUESADILLAS

1 cup sliced leeks

1/4 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced

1/4 cup butter

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground Mexican oregano

10 ounces goat cheese

12 (6-inch) flour tortillas

Finely diced red (or yellow) and green peppers

Cilantro leaves

Sliced avocado, optional

Fresh Fruit Relish

Guajillo Chile Sauce

Saute leeks and mushrooms in butter until tender. Stir in cumin and oregano. Cream goat cheese, then fold leek mixture into cheese.

Spread each tortilla with about 1 1/2 ounces goat cheese mixture. Fold in half and place on baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees 5 minutes. Sprinkle quesadillas with confetti of finely diced red and green peppers. Garnish with cilantro and sliced avocados and serve with Fresh Fruit Relish and Guajillo Chile Sauce. Makes 12 servings.

Fresh Fruit Relish

1 small papaya, peeled and coarsely diced

1/4 cup diced mango (if in season)

Juice of 2 limes

6 large strawberries, coarsely diced

2 tablespoons sugar or to taste

2 tablespoons chopped mint

Combine papaya, mango, lime juice, strawberries, sugar and chopped mint in bowl. Mix lightly to blend flavors. Makes 12 servings.

Guajillo Chile Sauce

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon guajillo or ancho chile paste

1 1/2 teaspoons pasilla chile paste

2 cups tomato puree

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup chicken stock

Saute onion and garlic in olive oil until tender. Add oregano, cumin, pepper and chile pastes. Cook 3 minutes.

Add tomato puree, salt and chicken stock. Simmer 15 minutes. Makes 12 servings.

Note: Chile pastes may be made by adding water to ground chile power, pureeing canned chiles with small amount of liquid or soaking dried chiles in hot water, then drain off almost all water, peel, seed and puree pulp in food processor or blender.

TUMBLEWEED QUESADILLA FILLED WITH BRISKET OF BEEF AND QUESO ANEJO

1 pound shredded brisket, slow smoked with hickory wood

1/4 cup finely chopped red onions

1/4 cup ancho chili paste

Salt

Water or beef broth

16 (5-inch) homemade corn tortillas, lightly cooked

1/4 cup crumbled anejo cheese

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Combine brisket, onions, chili paste and salt to taste. Add water or beef broth if mixture is dry. Divide meat mixture between 8 tortillas. Top each with equal amount cheese and second tortilla. Melt butter on griddle or in skillet. Cook tortillas until browned on both sides, turning once. Makes 8 servings.

Note: If anejo cheese is not available, substitute queso fresco. To approximate brisket served at restaurant, prepare by following recipe or add liquid smoke to roasted brisket.

Hickory Smoked Brisket

1 (3- to 3 1/2-pound) beef brisket

2 to 3 cups low-sodium beef stock

Trim any excess fat from brisket. Place in foil pan large enough to hold easily. Place pan in center of double sheet heavy foil large enough to wrap around brisket and pan and seal well. Add 1 1/2 cups beef stock to pan, then bring foil up over meat and wrap, sealing well so no steam or liquid can escape.

Place pan in covered grill with coals placed for indirect heat (on sides of grill and not directly under meat). Cover and open top and bottom grill vents just enough to maintain 250- to 300-degree (low to medium) heat.

Cook brisket 4 to 5 hours or until meat shreds when flaked with fork, replacing charcoal as needed during cooking to maintain heat. Open package after about 3 hours to check if more beef broth is needed. Reseal package well.

When meat can be shredded, open package and fold foil back. Add drained water-soaked hickory chips to coals. Add additional beef broth to pan if needed. Close cover and cook 45 minutes to 1 hour longer, adding hickory chips once or twice, if desired. Makes 1 to 2 pounds shredded meat.

SABROSO BLUE CORN HARINILLA QUESADILLAS

1 cup blue corn harinilla

Dash salt

1 cup boiling water

Frijoles Refritos (Refried Beans)

1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

Peanut oil for deep fat frying

Combine harinilla and salt in mixing bowl. Slowly add boiling water and blend thoroughly. (Dough should be damp enough to mold into balls.)

Form dough into 1 1/2-inch balls. Place 1 portion between 2 plastic circles in tortilla press and press to 4-inch diameter. Peel off top plastic circle.

Place 1/2 teaspoon bean mixture and 1/2 teaspoon cheese on tortilla. Fold in half around filling and pinch edges through plastic to seal quesadilla in half moon shape. Peel off plastic. Repeat procedure for remaining 5 quesadillas.

Meanwhile heat oil to 400 degrees over medium high heat. Fry quesadillas, few at time, 2 minutes or until golden brown on both sides, turning once. Drain on paper towels. Makes 10 to 12 quesadillas.

Note: Blue corn harinilla is very finely ground blue corn meal, with a texture similar to flour, and may be purchased at restaurant.

Frijoles Refritos

(Refried Beans)

1 tablespoon rendered pork fat or olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped onion

1 cup cooked black beans

1 teaspoon chile or hot pepper sauce

Salt

Heat fat in saute pan or skillet. Add onion and saute until well browned. Add beans and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture forms paste. Add chile sauce and salt to taste. Makes about 3/4 cup.

Note: 1 (15-ounce) can black beans may be substituted for cooked beans.

AMBROSIA BLUE CRAB AND BLACK BEAN QUESADILLAS

12 (8-inch) flour tortillas

Black Bean Sauce

1 1/2 cups crumbled anejo cheese

1 1/2 cups shredded Louisiana blue crab

3 tablespoons butter

Guacamole

Sour cream

Salsa fresca

Spread each of 6 tortillas with 2 to 3 tablespoons Black Bean Sauce, 1/4 cup cheese and 1/4 cup crab. Cover each with second tortilla.

Melt 1/2 tablespoon butter in large skillet or saute pan over medium high heat. Cook each tortilla stack until bottom tortilla is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and continue cooking until second side is golden brown.

Slide quesadilla out of pan onto cutting board and cut into 8 pieces with pizza cutter. Serve with guacamole, sour cream and salsa fresca. Makes about 48 hors d’oeuvres.

Note: If Louisiana blue crab is not available, substitute other fresh crab.

Black Bean Sauce

1/2 cup black beans

1 tablespoon chopped onions

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 to 1 cup chicken stock

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Chipotle sauce

1/4 bunch cilantro, chopped

Soak black beans in water overnight. Next day, drain beans and set aside. Saute onion and garlic in olive oil until tender. Add beans and salt and cook 1 minute. Add chicken stock to cover beans, bring to boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer until beans are tender about 45 minutes. Cool.

Process beans in food processor or blender until smooth. Add Chipotle sauce to taste and cilantro. If sauce is too thick, thin with additional chicken stock. Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Chipotle sauce may be made by pureeing canned chiles.