Currying Favor : From many spices comes the truly exotic blend that we refer to as curry. Intrepid cooks may prefer to make their own, using chiles, cumin seeds, turmeric, black peppercorns, garlic, ginger, among other seasonings.

Curry is an often misunderstood seasoning. To many, it is simply a bottle of yellow powder to be found in the spice section at the nearest supermarket. Even those who profess to like the zingy bite provided by this ubiquitous yellow flavoring rarely bother to glance at the label.

If they did, it quite likely would come as a shock to find that curry powder per se isn’t a single exotic spice, but a mixture of spices whose end flavor depends entirely on the amounts and variety of ingredients that a particular brand contains. The list of ingredients and the quantities of each used varies from brand to brand.

Thus it should be no surprise to find that a homemade curry mixture will have a very different taste from the commercial blends one finds so handy. A true, from-scratch curry blend depends entirely on the likes and at-the-moment whim of the cook.

Curry mixtures, whether commercially packed or homemade, can be blazing hot or mild as a cucumber. In India and other parts of the world where curry-flavored foods are popular, these spice mixtures are decidedly individual as whoever concocts them adds their own personal touch.

Each batch is freshly prepared and may contain varying amounts of as many as 15 or 16 spices and herbs, all pounded and blended together to enhance whatever food the cook is preparing. A from-scratch curry mix often contains ground dried chiles, cumin seeds, turmeric, black peppercorns, garlic, ginger, anise seeds, fenugreek, bay leaves and numerous other spices in addition. Or, if the cook prefers, a curry may be an interesting blend of only a few of the many spices available to today’s cooks.

The foods cooked with the spice blends we call curry can be as varied as the mixtures. Meats, vegetables, grains--even fruits--benefit from the flavors provided by different seasoning combinations.

The sweetness found in dried fruits can be elegantly enhanced with many of the spices normally found in a curry mix. And stronger meats such as lamb and beef take on new character when seasoned with some of the spicier curry blends. One of the recipes included in today’s article is a pear dessert flavored with just a hint of a bottled curry powder. It may sound strange to flavor a dessert with a curry blend but this one was an instant hit with those lucky enough to taste it.

If the flavors found in prepackaged curry mixtures are not to your liking, it may be that they can be pleasantly adjusted to something more palatable by simply adding a few extra seasonings. If you prefer a hotter (spicier) seasoning, try adding more cumin powder or seed to the mix you’re using.

Or if the bottled mix you have is too spicy for your liking, try creating, from scratch, a blend that suits you better. Cloves and cinnamon will add a touch of sweetening and anise seeds will add a hint of licorice. All it takes is a mortar and pestle or a mini food processor--or even a coffee bean grinder--and a collection of spices and herbs.

Start with small amounts of spices you know you like and add others as you go along. But--and this is important--a curry blend will only be as good as the spices are fresh. If you’ve had bottles of turmeric or bay leaves or cumin stashed away on a spice shelf for a year or so, forget them. They are over the hill and will provide nothing but a dry grassy flavor and aroma to the foods they are used to season. Learn to trust your nose when it comes to spices. A good quick whiff will tell you whether it’s time to replace one or not. If it smells dry and stale, that’s exactly how it will taste.

The following recipes will show how easy it is to create your own personal curry mix as well as how to use these heavily spiced mixtures. We’ve also included several recipes that call for the readily available bottled commercial products just in case you’d like the easy way out. CHICKEN-YOGURT CURRY

8 chicken thighs

1 cup yogurt

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chiles

1 cup oil

2 large onions, chopped

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground almonds

1/2 cup shredded coconut

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon mace

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 tablespoon ground cardamom

1 cup warm water

2 tablespoons milk

1/4 teaspoon saffron

1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves

Lemon juice

Remove skin and pierce chicken thighs with fork. Mix yogurt with salt, ginger, turmeric, garlic and chiles. Rub paste over chicken and marinate 2 hours.

Heat oil in large, heavy skillet and saute onions until golden. Remove onions and set aside to cool. Dry roast ground coriander, cumin, almonds, coconut, nutmeg and mace over medium low heat 3 minutes in heavy skillet, stirring often. Place onions and coriander mixture in blender and grind to fine paste. Transfer to bowl and add cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. Mix well.

Reheat oil in which onions were fried and brown marinated chicken. Pour spice paste over chicken and stir in any leftover yogurt marinade. Add warm water. Simmer until chicken is tender. In small saucepan, warm milk and add saffron. Add gradually to chicken, stirring slowly. Cook 2 more minutes. Sprinkle cilantro leaves and lemon juice over chicken. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

CURRIED SKEWERED PORK

1 (8-ounce) package dried mixed fruit

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

Juice of 3 large oranges

3 to 4 pounds lean pork

Salt, pepper

1 egg, beaten

Water

1/2 cup seasoned bread crumbs

2 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 cup shredded fresh coconut

Toss dried fruit in small bowl with cumin and ginger. Stir in orange juice and let stand about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Cut pork into 15 (1x2 1/2--inch) cubes. Thread 5 meat cubes on each of 3 heavy 6- to 7-inch long wood skewers. Season meat to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine beaten egg with 1 tablespoon water in shallow bowl and dip each skewer into egg mixture, turning to coat well. Immediately dip into bread crumbs, coating well. Brown meat on all sides in hot oil in skillet.

Drain fruit, reserving juice, and add fruit to skillet. Add enough water to reserved juice to measure at least 1/2 cup liquid. Add to pan, stirring up any browned bits. Cover, reduce heat and simmer mixture 30 to 40 minutes or until meat is tender and cooked through.

Remove meat and fruit to warm platter and thicken sauce in skillet with mixture of cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water, if desired. Serve sauce over meat and sprinkle fruit with shredded fresh coconut. Makes 3 servings.

CURRIED DESSERT PEARS

2 cups water

2 cups sugar

1/4 cup julienned ginger root

4 pears, peeled and halved

Gingered Whipped Cream

Combine water and sugar in saucepan over medium heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Stir in ginger and set aside. Arrange pear halves in 13x9 baking dish and pour sugar syrup over them.

Cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees about 1 hour or until pears are tender. Remove from oven and chill in syrup.

To serve, arrange 2 pear halves on plate and fill centers with Gingered Whipped Cream. Makes 4 servings.

Gingered Whipped Cream

1/2 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1 tablespoon minced candied ginger

Whip cream until foamy. Add sugar, vanilla and curry powder and continue whipping until mixture holds shape when beaters are lifted out. Lightly fold in candied ginger. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

RAM’S CHICKEN CURRY

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 large onion minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 cup water

1 medium tomato, peeled and chopped

1/3 cup low-fat yogurt

1 tablespoon paprika

2 chicken breasts, halved and skinned

Curry Mix

Salt

Melt butter in skillet. Add onion, garlic and ginger and saute until golden. Carefully add water and mix well. Add tomato and yogurt and cook everything down until it becomes thick paste. Add paprika.

Reduce heat and add chicken pieces, turning to coat well. Cover and let cook until chicken is nearly done, stirring occasionally. Add Curry Mix and stir to mix thoroughly. Remove cover and continue cooking until chicken is done. Season to taste with salt. Makes 4 servings.

Curry Mix

1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 dried bay leaf, crushed

Combine coriander, cumin and bay leaf in dry skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally about 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from heat and pour onto cutting board. With rolling pin, grind into powder.

Note: This is fairly hot curry. If less hot curry is desired, add milk to reduce heat.

CURRIED CRAB-RICE SALAD

1/2 pound cooked and chilled crab meat

1 1/4 cups cooked and chilled rice

1/3 cup chopped celery

2 green onions, chopped

1/4 cup sliced water chestnuts

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 cup mayonnaise

Salt, pepper

4 medium tomatoes

Lettuce

Reserve several pieces of crab meat for garnish. Mix remaining crab with rice, celery, green onions and water chestnuts, tossing lightly to mix. Combine lemon juice, soy sauce, curry powder and mayonnaise, blending well.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add to crab mixture, tossing lightly to coat well. Cover and chill thoroughly.

At serving time, place tomatoes stem end down and cut into wedges almost all way through. Press to open and form flower. Place tomatoes on lettuce-lined plates and fill centers with crab mixture. Garnish with reserved crab pieces. Makes 4 servings.

ULTIMATE LAMB CURRY

3 pounds lean, boneless lamb

3 tablespoons oil

1 large onion, chopped

Green Mix

Curry Mix

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 cup water, about

Salt

Hot cooked rice

Condiments: chutney, chopped green onions, chopped hard-cooked eggs, golden raisins, chopped peanuts, shredded coconut, minced crisp cooked bacon, slivered candied ginger, etc.

Cut lamb into 1-inch cubes. Brown lightly in oil, remove from pan and set aside.

Add onion to oil remaining in pan and brown lightly. Add more oil, if needed. Blend in Green Mix and cook 2 minutes. Stir in Curry Mix, tomato paste, vinegar and enough water to make thick sauce.

Return lamb to pan and cook, covered, until lamb is very tender, adding water as needed. Season to taste with salt. Serve with hot rice. Serve condiments in separate bowls. Makes about 8 servings.

Green Mix

1 bunch cilantro

1 bunch parsley

4 cloves garlic

1 (3-inch) piece ginger root, peeled and coarsely chopped

Discard tougher stems of cilantro and parsley. Place remaining cilantro and parsley, garlic and ginger in blender container or food processor bowl. Chop mixture very fine.

Curry Mix

4 teaspoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

2 teaspoons dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

Blend coriander, cumin, turmeric, chili powder, dry mustard, cloves and cardamom, mixing well.

CURRIED EGGS GOLDENROD

6 tablespoons butter or margarine

6 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon curry powder

3 cups milk

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

Salt

9 hard-cooked eggs

2 green onions, chopped

Toast triangles or baked patty shells

Melt butter in saucepan. Stir in flour and curry powder. Cook, stirring until mixture forms smooth paste. Add milk and cook, stirring, until mixture thickens and comes to boil. Remove from heat and stir in hot pepper sauce. Season to taste with salt.

Cut 3 eggs in halves and chop whites. Press yolks through sieve and set aside. Quarter remaining 6 eggs and add with chopped whites to curry sauce. Turn mixture into serving dish and sprinkle top with sieved yolks and green onions. Serve on toast triangles or in patty shells. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Photographed by MICHAEL EDWARDS / Los Angeles Times. Food styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane