Turkey on a Small Scale :...

Thanksgiving traditionally means a gorgeous turkey, all golden-brown and redolent with enticing aroma, in the starring role of the holiday feast. And for many families, that is just what will appear as friends and family members gather to celebrate.

Those who don’t plan to celebrate with a group large enough to merit a whole turkey, however, will still find plenty of tradition to go around. There’s no need to substitute a chicken or a ham or some other less-traditional centerpiece. Not when it’s as easy to buy and prepare turkey parts as it is to serve a whole bird. For small families to whom leftovers are an anathema, turkey parts are a wonderful solution.

Elsewhere in today’s Food section, you’ll find plenty of suggestions on how to cook a whole turkey, plus some excellent stuffing recipes and even the simplest possible instructions on how to make a rich, brown turkey gravy. But today’s Page 1 is devoted to suggestions for making Thanksgiving dinners for small households and for larger groups who don’t want a repeat of the Thanksgiving meal ad infinitum.

One of the great joys in serving turkey parts is that you don’t risk overcooking the white meat to get the dark meat done. A turkey breast, cooked by itself, can be roasted to a tender, yet still juicy stage . . . and, oh, what a difference that makes in both flavor and texture. No more cottony dryness one has to conceal with gravy.

And for those who find the finest flavor in turkey thighs and legs, it’s easy to add an extra portion so you can actually have all you want at a sitting.

Although the rule of thumb for figuring the number of servings in a whole turkey ranges from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 servings per pound, that varies greatly when one buys parts. When buying bone-in turkey breasts or thighs, figure you will get about 2 1/2 to 3 servings per pound. Boneless turkey breasts or thighs will provide 3 to 3 1/2 servings per pound, according to the National Turkey Federation; while a bone-in turkey hindquarter (thigh and drumstick) will provide about 2 1/2 servings per pound.

Cooking times also will vary greatly. In testing the recipes that follow, The Times found that using a thermometer was the best way to be sure the turkey parts were neither undercooked nor overcooked. Using an oven temperature of 325 degrees, we found that it took about 20 to 25 minutes per pound to obtain an internal temperature of 170 degrees for a whole turkey breast. Dark meat cuts such as the drumsticks and thighs weighing 1 to 1 1/3 pounds each were roasted at 325 degrees and took about 50 to 60 minutes to obtain an internal temperature of 175 to 180 degrees. Don’t forget that when using a thermometer, it should be placed in the thickest part of the meat but not allowed to touch the bone.

The following recipes provide a range of holiday suggestions that cover a variety of turkey parts. For those who prefer white meat, the delicate flavor of turkey is superbly supported when boneless turkey breasts are stuffed with shiitake mushrooms and poached in white wine. When served on a platter surrounded by julienne-style crisp vegetables, it makes an elegant presentation with wonderful flavor.

Another interesting treatment for turkey breast has marked Oriental overtones. A roasted whole breast is served with a well-seasoned, jambalaya-style mixture of Chinese sweet rice, long-grain rice, smoked oysters, onion, ginger, shrimp, peas and sausage. The spicy rice-based accompaniment adds a touch of the exotic to the rather bland turkey.

Those who prefer dark meat will find Corn Bread-Stuffed Turkey Thighs have most of the attributes of a normal Thanksgiving dinner on a small scale. The spicy corn-bread stuffing enhances the flavorful dark meat nicely, while a good, rich turkey gravy rounds out the holiday entree.

If you could never get enough drumsticks when you were a kid, you might like to try a more adult version of this popular poultry item. We loosened the skin on turkey drumsticks and slipped garlic and sage leaves between the bone and the meat. As the drumsticks baked, the seasonings permeated the meat providing both a winning taste and an appetizing aroma.

These are just a few suggestions for ways to serve turkey on a small scale for the holidays. Keep them in mind for future use even if you decide that a whole bird and delicious leftovers are a better choice for the big day. They’ll do just as well for small dinner parties as they will for our traditional day of the turkey.

WINE-POACHED TURKEY BREAST

1 boneless whole turkey breast

1 teaspoon minced garlic

Salt, pepper

2 (1-ounce) package shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted in warm water

4 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup white wine

1 1/2 cups water

1 carrot, cut in chunks

1 teaspoon fines herbes seasoning

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 onion, chopped

2 cups carrot strips

2 cups yellow crookneck squash strips

2 cups zucchini strips

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 to 4 tablespoons whipping cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Flatten turkey breast on board. Rub with garlic and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove hard stems from shiitake mushrooms. Leave half of mushrooms whole and reserve. Cut remaining half into strips and mix with half of chopped celery.

Place mushroom-celery mixture in row on long side of breast. Roll up breast starting from long edge. Secure opening with wood picks about 1 to 2 inches apart. Using long string, lace up by crisscrossing string around wood picks to close opening. Wrap up rolled breast with cheesecloth.

Combine wine, water, remaining celery, carrot chunks and fines herbes in Dutch oven or large saucepan. Bring to boil. Add turkey breast. Cover and simmer 1 hour. (Turkey in broth may be refrigerated at this point for more flavor, then reheated at serving time.)

Drain stuffed breast from broth. Strain broth and reserve. Remove cheesecloth, string and wood picks from turkey. Keep turkey warm while making vegetables and sauce.

Melt butter in large skillet. Saute garlic and onion until tender. Add carrot strips and cook until tender-crisp. Add squash and zucchini and cook just until tender-crisp. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine broth with cornstarch in saucepan. Add whole shiitake mushrooms and simmer until sauce is slightly thickened. Remove mushrooms and reserve for garnish. Stir whipping cream and mustard into sauce and simmer to desired consistency.

Surround rolled turkey breast with vegetables and serve with sauce. Garnish with whole shiitake mushrooms. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

TURKEY BREAST WITH ORIENTAL JAMBALAYA

Roast Turkey Breast

1/4 cup oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

1 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup thin sweet red pepper strips

2 cups kielbasa or andouille sausage strips

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans clear chicken broth

1/2 cup sweet rice, washed and drained

3/4 cup long-grain rice, washed and drained

1 bay leaf

Salt, pepper

Cayenne pepper

2 (3 3/4-ounce) cans smoked oysters

1 cup bay shrimp

1 cup frozen peas or 1/2 cup chopped parsley

Prepare Roast Turkey Breast.

Heat oil in Dutch oven. Saute garlic and ginger until tender. Add and saute onions until tender. Stir in sweet red pepper and sausage. Stir-fry 3 minutes. Mix in turmeric and broth. Bring to boil. Add sweet and long-grain rice and bay leaf. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne. Cover and simmer until rice is tender, stirring occasionally. (Add more broth or water if necessary.)

Gently mix in smoked oysters, bay shrimp and peas. Heat 5 minutes. Serve hot with Roast Turkey Breast. Makes about 8 servings. If desired, serve with steamed spinach.

Roast Turkey Breast

1 (8 to 9-pound) turkey breast

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt, pepper

2 to 4 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

Sprinkle turkey with lemon juice. Rub underside and skin with salt and pepper to taste. Brush with melted butter.

Place turkey skin side up in shallow pan. Roast at 400 degrees 20 minutes until skin begins to brown. Reduce heat to 325 degrees and roast 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until meat is tender and registers 170 degrees on meat thermometer, basting occasionally with drippings.

HERB-STUFFED TURKEY DRUMSTICKS

2 (1 1/2 pounds each) turkey drumsticks

Sage leaves

1 teaspoon minced garlic

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup butter or margarine, melted

Loosen skin on drumsticks. Place few sage leaves and garlic between skin and meat of drumsticks. Season to taste with salt and pepper and brush with melted butter. Cover and roast at 325 degrees 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours or until meat thermometer registers 180 degrees and thighs are tender when tested with fork. Garnish with sage leaves. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

CORN BREAD-STUFFED TURKEY THIGHS

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 cup minced onions

1 cup sliced celery

1/4 cup minced sweet red pepper

1/4 cup minced green pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves

1 tablespoon chopped oregano leaves

1 (12-ounce) box corn bread dressing mix

1 (12-ounce) can whole kernel corn

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can clear chicken broth

8 turkey thighs, boned

Salt, pepper

Heat 1/4 cup butter in skillet until melted. Add onions, celery, sweet red and green peppers and garlic. Saute until vegetables are tender. Stir in tarragon and oregano leaves. Add to dressing mix along with undrained corn kernels. Add enough chicken broth to moisten stuffing. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Season inside of turkey thighs to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon about 1/4 cup stuffing onto each thigh. Fold sides to center to form roll and tie. Place in shallow roasting pan and roast at 325 degrees 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes or until temperature reaches 180 degrees. Brush with remaining 1/4 cup melted butter. When turkey is done, remove to platter and keep warm. Reserve pan drippings to make Gravy. Makes 8 servings.

Gravy

Reserved pan drippings

2 cups water or turkey broth

3 tablespoons flour

Salt, pepper

Pour off excess fat from drippings reserving 3 tablespoons drippings. Pour water into roasting pan, scraping up any browned bits. Heat drippings in saucepan and stir in flour. Cook 1 minute. Add pan liquid and bring to boil, stirring constantly. Simmer 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

TURKEY THIGHS WITH MIXED VEGETABLE SAUCE

1 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup white wine

3 pounds turkey thighs

1 1/2 tablespoons oil or melted butter or margarine

1 1/2 teaspoons oregano

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

1 onion, sliced

2 pattypan squash, sliced

2 yellow crookneck squash, sliced

1 bunch radish, cut in halves

2 tomatoes, diced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves

Juice of 1 lemon

Mix chicken broth and white wine. Pour 1 cup mixture into shallow baking dish. Rub turkey thighs lightly with oil. Sprinkle with oregano and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bake at 325 degrees 50 to 60 minutes or to internal temperature of 175 to 180 degrees, basting occasionally.

Heat olive oil in skillet and saute onion until tender. Stir in patty pan and yellow squash, radish, tomatoes and basil 3 minutes. Add remaining broth mixture and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer until vegetables are tender-crisp. Serve with sliced turkey thighs. Garnish with basil leaves, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

HOT AND SOUR TURKEY WINGS

4 turkey wings, about 4 pounds

2 tablespoons oil

1 (20-ounce) can pineapple chunks

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1 clove garlic, pressed

2 teaspoons crushed dried red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1 cup green onion fans

1 cup sweet red or green pepper strips

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

Cut each wing into 2 pieces at joints, leaving tip with blade. Heat oil in large wok or Dutch oven. Brown wings slowly on all sides. Drain excess fat.

Combine 1/3 cup syrup or juice from pineapple with soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, garlic, red pepper flakes and ginger. Pour over turkey wings. Cover and simmer 20 minutes or until tender. Add pineapple chunks, green onion fans and pepper strips. Simmer 10 minutes. Serve hot sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: To make green onion fans, cut 1 1/2-inch lengths of green onion. Cut both ends in several lengthwise cuts. Place in ice water so ends will curl.

NUT-STUFFED TURKEY BREAST

1 (3 to 5-pound) turkey breast half

3/4 cup ground walnuts

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

Rinse turkey and pat dry. Pull skin back, leaving attached along one edge. Cut two lengthwise slits, 1-inch deep in turkey. Combine walnuts, cheese, butter and garlic powder. Add 1/2 cup mixture to each pocket formed by slits. Spread remaining mixture on surface of turkey. Secure skin over turkey with wood picks.

Place turkey in open roasting pan. Bake at 325 degrees 1 1/2 hours. Cover. Bake 1/2 to 1 hour more to an internal temperature of 170 degrees. Let stand 10 minutes before slicing. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Note: Bone-in or boneless fresh turkey breast half may be used.

Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna

Deane Platters from Fitz & Floyd.