The Tranquil Owens Valley Beckons

In winter the lonely towns in Owens Valley are mostly food and fuel stops for Southland skiers racing along U.S. 395 to the slopes of Mammoth and June mountains. But travelers who detour for a while in Independence will discover much about the intriguing past of the eastern Sierra.

Long before ski resorts enticed visitors to the area, pioneers were establishing farms and ranches at the base of the majestic mountain range. That caused problems with the original inhabitants of the land, Paiute Indians.

Plea for Protection

Answering the settlers’ plea for military protection in 1862, a contingent of soldiers arrived on July 4 and established an outpost. Named in honor of that special day, Camp Independence quieted the Indian hostilities and encouraged more settlement in the valley.

But soon after the camp closed the Paiutes resumed their attacks, and the soldiers came back to establish Ft. Independence on the same site in 1865. Meanwhile, around a nearby trading post, Thomas Edwards laid out a town site that eventually was named Independence and became the seat of Inyo County.

These days an Indian reservation occupies the old fort property. Two of its vintage military structures were moved to town, including the restored Commander’s House. Now set along U.S. 395 at the corner of Edwards and Main streets, the 114-year-old home has furnishings of the 1880s. Visitors can arrange a tour of the house in advance by calling (619) 878-2411, Ext. 2258.

The largest repository of Owens Valley memorabilia is the Eastern California Museum just four blocks off the highway. Against a backdrop of the snowcapped Sierra you’ll find a modern building crammed with artifacts and an outdoor collection of weathered structures and machinery from all over the county.

Very special is the exhibit of Paiute and Shoshone Indian baskets, beadwork and arrowheads. Also unusual is a display of mementos from Manzanar, the World War II relocation camp for 10,000 Japanese-Americans from Los Angeles.

Elsewhere in Independence is the former home of celebrated author Mary Austin. And you can spend the night in a landmark hotel called the Winnedumah Country Inn, where guests have been welcomed by the same proprietress for nearly 60 years.

Through the Mojave

Get to the tranquil town from Los Angeles by driving north on Interstate 5 and California 14 (or Interstates 10 and 15) and joining U.S. 395. You’ll pass through the Mojave Desert before reaching Owens Valley and seeing the lofty Sierra Nevada along its western border.

Near Lone Pine look left to see the highest point in the lower 48 states, Mt. Whitney, with a jagged pinnacle that towers 14,494 feet. Nine miles north of Lone Pine is the entrance to Manzanar, one of 10 Japanese relocation camps established in 1942.

Once surrounded by barbed wire, the huge compound is barren except for two stone guard houses and a cemetery. The camp closed in 1945 and last year was named a national historic landmark. At the turn of the century it was a farming community with apple orchards; Manzanar is the Spanish name for that fruit.

A few miles beyond U.S. 395 enters Independence, where the highway is named Edwards Street after the town founder. Opposite the county courthouse you’ll see the columned entrance to the Winnedumah Country Inn, built by Walter Dow of Whittier in 1926.

Keeping Dust Down

Soon after it opened, Hattie and Fred Schafer became the managers and eventually took over ownership. These days you’ll find Hattie greeting guests from an easy chair in the lobby. She recalls when U.S 395 was just a dirt road and her husband had to spray it with water to keep the hotel from being filled with dust.

Called the Three Flags Highway in early times, it was a major route between Canada and Mexico and the Winnedumah hosted all sorts of celebrities. Among them was Bing Crosby and his family, whom the Schafers put in rooms above their office so they could listen to see if the famous crooner really sang in the shower.

Hattie still rents 20 rooms. Their decor is dated but they have good beds and a price that’s hard to beat: $35 for two persons, $30 single, including continental breakfast. Call (619) 878-2040 for reservations or just drop in.

In the large lobby a welcoming log fire burns in the rock fireplace made of ore samples from area mines. Above it a bronze plaque relates the Indian legend of Winnedumah for which the hotel was named.

Oldest House in County

Driving west on Market Street, look for the oldest house in Inyo County at No. 124. Its adobe rooms, now covered with siding, were used by the town founder in the 1860s.

A block down the street, on the opposite side, a state historical marker stands in front of the home Mary Austin built in the early 1900s. On it is a quotation from one of her novels.

Continue west to Grant Street and the Eastern California Museum. You can easily spend an hour or longer peering at relics and photographs that range from the area’s pioneer and Indian era to more recent times. Don’t miss the Manzanar exhibits.

The free museum is open Thursday through Monday from noon to 4 p.m. (from 10 a.m. Saturdays). Donations are appreciated.

Cedars of Lebanon

Returning on Market Street and crossing the highway, look behind the courthouse at beautiful trees planted when the stately county building was erected in 1922. The giant sequoia and cedars of Lebanon are rare in the Owens Valley.

Opposite the trees, Center Street goes to Clay Street where you’ll see the now-vacant Robinson House, built in the late 1800s from lumber taken from Ft. Independence when it was abandoned.

South past the school on Clay Street you can wander among the headstones and rose bushes in the town cemetery that dates to 1862.

If you’re hungry, try the Pines Cafe, Nancy’s restaurant or the cafe in Austin’s General Store; local folks often drive to Lone Pine to dine out.

Return to Los Angeles by heading south on U.S. 395.

Round trip from Los Angeles to explore Independence is 448 miles.