Liberating Mom for the Fourth

More and more children are in the kitchen these days, helping Mom and learning the ABC’s of fancy cooking, honing skills that could make today’s young novices tomorrow’s great home cooks. Some recipes were chosen from a children’s cookbook and can be prepared for a Fourth of July picnic.

Move over, Mom. Put your feet up, read a book, take up Sanskrit, listen to Beethoven. And don’t worry about cooking dinner. Junior will cook it.

At Macy’s department stores, moms and pops, junior in tow, elbow their way, not to the bargain counters, but to cooking classes held exclusively for kids. They are dragging their kids, not to tea dances, but to fancy cookware stores to study the latest developments in the art of the food processor. And food companies are teaching kids how to stir-fry, via recipes and special cooking columns directed to kids. Even The Times’ cooking class listings, which in the past listed only classes for adults, has in the last year or two included several classes for children each month. Authors smart enough to pick up on the trend are turning out cookbooks for children.

“My First Cookbook” by Rena Coyle (Workman Publishing: $8.95, paperback, 128 pages, illustrated), is such a book and Coyle is such an author. Coyle, a former pastry chef at Windows on the World restaurant in New York, has cooked professionally for such food authorities as Mimi Sheraton and has developed recipes for several cookbooks.

It was Catelyn, Coyle’s 3 1/2-year-old daughter, who inspired the book that would bring children and a natural companion--food--together in a meaningful, educational way.

“Kids love to cook, and with a little guidance, supervision and patience, they do very well,” Coyle said.

Bialosky, a toy bear often featured on cookie jars, mugs and kitchen towels these days, is used as the book’s main character. It is Bialosky who shows how to prepare the 50 dishes for breakfast, dinner, snacks, desserts and holiday treats that children can handle at any age. Coyle used several groups of boys and girls of various age groups, including her 3-year-old daughter, to test and taste the recipes.

Common-sense safety instructions cover the basics, including how to handle dangerous equipment such as knives and hot pots, cleaning up and basic techniques for cracking and separating eggs, rolling out pastry and kneading dough.

Before beginning, however, the author cautions parents to be available at all times for assistance and supervision. A paw print on top of a recipe indicates that extra supervision may be required. “In all cases, young cooks should never begin any recipe without first consulting an adult,” she writes.

The recipes of this “upscale” child’s cookbook are given in large print, with suggested utensils, preparation time and cooking time added. The explicitness of the recipes makes them extra long as well, but there is hardly a way to get around the recipe language when it is necessary to explain things in great detail for a child to understand.

The choice of recipes is good, and some require more cooking experience than others. It would have been better, I think, to have also provided an age-range for the recipes. Tiny tots may be able to fold over the pastry of sausage pockets, but nothing much more. Even older children will need the help of an adult to assemble ingredients and utensils.

For breakfast, children can help prepare sausage pockets of pastry filled with cheese and sausage. The author even suggests a breakfast-in-bed surprise for Mother’s or Father’s Day, including baked stuffed apples.

Rainy day cinnamon raisin bread is a good introduction to making bread, and there is a happy birthday cake made from scratch, which mothers who use mixes may want to try for a change. A tea party with Bialosky features scones with butter and honey, and for lunch there is a pizza, taco, quiche and even a very sophisticated souffle. A sandwich box in which bread is hollowed out and filled with sandwiches and then tied is one of the charming additions to the book.

There are ideas for snacks such as nachos, baked cheese fingers and kebabs (which I would not try with toddlers). And for dinner there is manicotti, split pea soup, chicken and biscuit pie. Holiday things include a bear’s heart cookie, bread bunny and gingerbread Christmas cards made with cookie dough.

The picnic recipes chosen here include the bread basket, which involves tasks that can be handled by children of different age levels, depending on their skills, and a fruit basket made of melon filled with cut fruit. Both recipes will require a parent’s supervision and assistance.

We also include recipes from food manufacturers who see a market among the junior cooks. Stir-frying foods in a small amount of fat while stirring constantly easily can be handled by juniors.

The makers of Ragu spaghetti sauces have come out with a booklet called “Kids Are Cooks Too,” which stresses safety in the kitchen. (The booklet is available for $1 by writing to Ragu Kids Club, 415 Madison Ave., New York, N.Y. 10001.)

Here are some of their tips on safety in the kitchen:

--”If you are a beginner, have a parent or other adult work with you the first few times until they are sure you can do it yourself,” cautions the booklet. “Having friends help in the kitchen can be handy. But too much help can be unsafe. It’s best to cook when there aren’t too many friends or little children around--one or two helpers is plenty.”

--”Wash your hands before you prepare to cook any food.”

--”Dress for safety. Long floppy sleeves can catch fire or get caught in an appliance. So can long hair. Roll up sleeves and tie hair back. It’s also wise to wear clothes you won’t worry about dirtying--stains and splatters happen to every cook. Or wear an apron to protect clothes.”

More pointers about knives:

--”Sharp knives are safer to use than dull knives. They cut more quickly and easily than dull knives. So make sure knives are sharp--ask an adult to sharpen them, if necessary. And when working with sharp knives, make sure an adult is nearby to oversee.”

--”Move people out of your way when cutting with knives.”

--”Always use a cutting board to protect countertops.”

And about appliances:

--”Never stick your fingers into an electric appliance while in operation.”

--”Never use an electric appliance with wet hands.”

SANDWICH BREAD BOX

1 large round loaf bread, unsliced

12 thin slices whole-wheat bread

1 cup Cucumber Sandwich Filling

12 thin slices white bread

1 cup Pimiento Sandwich Filling

Polar Bear Pickles

Place bread loaf on cutting board. With adult’s help and using bread knife, carefully cut 1 1/2-inch-thick slice from top of loaf. Using tip of utility knife, cut circle around inside of bread, trying not to cut through bottom of loaf.

Using your hands, remove insides of loaf, leaving thick shell of crust. Save bread to feed birds or ducks. Set shell and top aside while making sandwiches.

Place whole-wheat bread on cutting board. Using utility knife, carefully trim crusts from bread. Save crusts for birds. Spread Cucumber Sandwich Filling evenly over 6 slices of whole-wheat bread and top with remaining 6 slices. Using utility knife, carefully cut sandwiches diagonally in halves.

Place white bread on cutting board and trim crusts. Spread Pimiento Sandwich Filling evenly over 6 slices of white bread and top with remaining 6 slices. Cut sandwiches diagonally in halves.

Place all sandwiches in bread box. It’s OK if sandwiches stick up above edge of box. Place top on bread box. Wrap 30-inch-long ribbon around it and tie with bow on top. Serve with crisp Polar Bear Pickles. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Bread boxes can be made in all sizes and shapes. Larger loaves will hide more sandwiches, but if only one or two friends are visiting, a smaller loaf. Just remember box needs to be made from bread that is unsliced.

Cucumber Sandwich Filling

1 large cucumber

1 teaspoon salt

1 small onion

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature

Using peeler, peel skin from cucumber. Place cucumber on cutting board and carefully cut cucumber lengthwise in half, using utility knife.

Holding one of halves in your hand, insert teaspoon under seeds and scoop out seeds. Throw seeds away. Removes seeds from other half of cucumber the same way.

Place cucumber halves on cutting board. Using utility knife, chop cucumber by first cutting it lengthwise into several slices and then cutting across the slices, making pieces as thin as possible. Place cucumber pieces in mixing bowl and sprinkle salt over pieces. Let stand 20 minutes. Cucumbers are full of water, and salt helps draw out a lot of that water.

Place onion on cutting board. Using utility knife, carefully trim ends off onion and throw them away. Cut onion lengthwise in half and peel skin off one of halves. Save other half for pimiento spread and some other use.

With onion half on cutting board, flat side down, cut from end to end into thin slices, and then cut slices crosswise as thinly as possible. Ask for help if you think you need it. Place onion in another mixing bowl.

Add cream cheese to onion and mix together with back of wooden spoon.

Place a strainer in sink and place cucumber pieces in it to drain. Press down on cucumber with paper towels to dry pieces more. Add cucumber to cream cheese mixture and stir together with wooden spoon.

Spoon mixture into small bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until 30 minutes before ready to use. Let soften at room temperature. If spread is very cold, stir with back of spoon to soften before spreading on bread. The spread will keep for several weeks in refrigerator. Makes 1 1/2 cups, or enough for 6 sandwiches.

Note: Sometimes onion is so strong that if it is used raw, it will overpower all other ingredients in dish. To remove harsh taste, place cut onion in cold water to cover and let sit for 20 minutes, then dry onion. If onion is to be cooked, don’t to soak it because cooking will reduce harshness.

Pimiento Sandwich Filling

1 (3 1/2-ounce) jar chopped pimientos

12 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese

1/2 small onion

1 cup mayonnaise

Place strainer in sink. Open jar of pimientos and empty into strainer to drain.

Meanwhile, using largest holes on grater, carefully grate cheese over sheet of wax paper. (Do this slowly so you don’t scrape your knuckles.) Place cheese in mixing bowl.

Place onion half on cutting board, peel off skin and throw away skin. With onion on board, flat side down, cut it from end to end into thin slices and then cut across slices 5 to 6 times to make small pieces. Add onion pieces to cheese.

Add mayonnaise to cheese and onion and mix lightly with wooden spoon. Add pimientos and stir gently until well mixed. Spooon mixture into small bowl, cover with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator. About 30 minutes before ready to use, take pimiento filling out of refrigerator and let stand at room temperature. If spread is very cold it will be too hard to spread on bread. Makes 1 1/2 cups or enough for 6 sandwiches.

Note: Spread both this filling and cucumber filling on crackers or toast halves for snack.

Polar Bear Pickles

1 quart old-fashioned whole dill pickles

1 large onion

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 cups sugar

Place strainer in sink and empty jar of pickles into it and let drain.

Place 1 of pickles on cutting board. Using utility knife, slice pickle lengthwise into quarters. Cut spears lengthwise in halves. Do the same with remaining pickles.

Place onion on cutting board. Using utility knife, carefully trim ends off onion and throw them away. Cut onion crosswise in half and peel skin from halves and throw away. Place each onion half flat side down on cutting board and cut into thin slices.

Place pickle pieces in even layer in storage container and pour in vinegar. Sprinkle sugar over pickles, then top with onion slices. Cover container and let stand 3 hours, which will give sugar time to become liquid.

Stir mixture, cover container again and refrigerate overnight. By next day, pickles and onion should be crisp and sweet. They will last for weeks if covered and kept in the refrigerator. Makes 1 quart.

Note: To make gift of these pickles, place them in clean jar, cover jar and tie with ribbon.

SPORTS CAR FRUIT SALAD

1 cantaloupe

1 small bunch seedless grapes

8 strawberries

1 banana

1/2 cup orange juice

1/4 cup shredded coconut

Place cantaloupe on cutting board. Using utility knife, cut 2-inch-thick slice from top of melon, then cut 1/2-inch-thick slice from bottom so melon can stand without falling over.

Scrape seeds out of melon with soup spoon. Using melon baller, scoop out small melon balls and place in mixing bowl. Don’t cut through bottom of melon shell. It will be container for salad.

Using cookie cutter, cut 4 circles from thick slice of melon. Attach circles to bottom of melon shell with wood pick so they look like wheels.

Rinse grapes, pick them off stem and add all but 2 of them to mixing bowl. Attach 2 grapes to front of melon shell to look like headlights.

Rinse strawberries and pull off any green leaves. Pat berries dry on paper towel and add to melon balls and grapes.

Peel banana, place on cutting board and cut into slices. Add banana to mixing bowl.

Add orange juice and coconut and toss to mix with wooden spoon. Spoon fruit salad into melon shell and serve right away. Makes 4 servings.

BROWNIES

4 ounces unsweetened baking chocolate

1/2 cup butter

1 1/2 teaspoons butter, at room temperature

3 eggs

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup flour

1 cup chopped walnuts

Fill bottom pan of double boiler half full with water. Place pan on stove and heat over medium heat to simmer.

Break chocolate into large pieces with hands and place in top pan of double boiler. Add 1/2 cup butter to chocolate and fit pan in bottom of double boiler. Reduce heat to low and melt chocolate and butter, stirring occasionally with wooden spoon. When completely melted, remove top pan and set on heat-proof surface to cool.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Spread 1 1/2 teaspoons butter on bottom and sides of baking pan with paper towel.

Break eggs into mixing bowl. Add sugar and vanilla. Using electric mixer, beat until mixture is light and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add chocolate mixture, scraping pan clean with rubber spatula, and mix at low speed 1 minute. Turn mixer off and scrap sides of bowl clean. Mix another minute and turn mixer off and scrape sides of bowl clean.

Mix another minute and turn mixer off and add half of flour. Mix at low speed until flour is mixed in. Add remaining flour and the walnuts and mix until blended.

Pour batter into buttered baking pan, scraping bowl clean with spatula. Put on oven mitts and place pan on rack in center of oven. Bake 30 minutes.

Put on oven mitts and remove pan from oven to heat-proof surface. Let brownies cool 15 minutes before cutting.

Using utility knife, cut brownies lengthwise into 3 even strips, then cut across strips every 2 inches.

Note: Wrap any brownies that are not eaten right away in pieces of plastic wrap. They will stay fresh for several days.

VEGETABLE STIR-FRY FOR KIDS

1/2 pound carrots, about

2 stalks celery, about

1/2 medium green pepper

2 tablespoons margarine

1/3 cup pasteurized process cheese spread

Wash carrots, celery and green pepper and dry with paper towels. Diagonally slice carrots until you have 2 cups carrot slices. Diagonally slice celery until you have 1 cup celery slices. Cut green pepper into thin strips.

Place margarine in skillet over medium-high heat until bubbly. Add carrots and celery to skillet. Stir-fry 6 minutes.

Add green pepper to skillet. Stir-fry 3 to 4 minutes or until vegetables are tender-crisp.

Remove skillet from heat. Add process cheese spread to skillet. Stir until melted. Makes 4 servings.

BROCCOLI-SESAME STIR-FRY

1 pound broccoli

1/4 cup margarine or butter

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Wash broccoli and dry with paper towels. Cut florets from broccoli. Cut stems crosswise into 1-inch chunks. Cut each chunk lengthwise into thin slices.

Place margarine in skillet over medium-high heat until bubbly. Add broccoli, onion and sesame seeds to skillet. Stir-fry 5 to 6 minutes or until vegetables are tender-crisp. Stir in soy sauce, if desired. Makes 6 servings.