Savoring the Great Flavor of France Over Lunch

LYON, France —  Locals jokingly call it the Paul Bocuse Special, French National Railroads’ super-swift TGV that zips down from Paris in two hours flat, just in time for many passengers to have lunch in one of this town’s countless superb restaurants and return to the City of Light well before nightfall.

Lyon’s culinary reputation, which many consider more luminous than the capital’s, began its astounding ascent 63 years ago in the old Roman town of Vienne 12 miles south of here when the Point family opened La Pyramide restaurant.

Recipes and a demand for perfection raised it to the lofty height of France’s premier dining place, leading to Fernand Point’s impressive collection of disciples, including Bocuse, Pierre Troisgros, Alain Chapel and other of France’s most revered and creative chefs.

Lyon, where 80% of offices close for lunch, has plenty of jewels in its crown besides food. An admirable location at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone rivers made it attractive to the Romans and capital of their western empire for several centuries.

Emperor Claudius was born here, magnificent Roman theaters date from 15 B.C., the Gallo-Roman Museum is one of the architectural-archeological wonders of Europe and a collection of Renaissance buildings in Old Town is as impressive as any outside Italy.

Here to there: Air France and TWA fly from Los Angeles International Airport to Paris nonstop; American and Pan Am with one; British Airways, Air Canada, Delta and British Caledonian with a change. Use your France Vacances rail pass for the TGV, some popular runs requiring a small supplement. Subways and buses get you around Lyon, taxis moderate.

How long/how much?: We’d give it two-plus days. Lodging prices are reasonable, dining moderate to expensive, depending upon how haut the cuisine in the place you choose.

A few fast facts: France’s franc was recently valued at almost seven to the dollar. Summer and fall are best for visits; even southern France can see snow until late spring.

Getting settled in: Grand Hotel des Beaux Arts (73 Rue du Edouard Herriot; $35 to $58 double) has old and new wings, both recently renovated, a handsome marble lobby with etched glass and lots of flowers, breakfast only, but it’s a large buffet in delightful room for $4.25.

The Carlton (Place de la Republique, $46 to $56) has the same traditional feel as Beaux Arts, contemporary and period rooms, perfect location on main shopping street and, like the hotel above, light sleepers should ask for a room in the rear. Again, breakfast only.

La Residence (18 Rue Victor Hugo; $28) is near Perrache railway station on a pedestrian street, small but neat rooms, TV, bright graphics and Room 213 has a marble fireplace.

Regional food and drink: Lyon is noted not only for its starry restaurants but also for les bouchons , 20 or so invariably small, simple, bistro-type places where the emphasis is on pork, ham and sausage dishes. Ask six locals why these places are called “corks” and you’ll get six different answers. But they’re unanimous in telling you with a straight face that Lyon is irrigated by the rivers Rhone, Saone and “Beaujolais.”

More seriously, freshness and quality typify local food: Lyon dry sausages and tripe; Ardeche chestnuts; Rhone and Beaujolais wines; carp; and chicken from nearby Bresse, the only bird so honored with an appellation controlee label.

Look for: pike quenelles with sauce Nantua; poularde demi-deuil , pullet in half-mourning with black truffles and cream; marvelous charcuterie; les boutons de culotte , trouser buttons of small, white chevre: Saint Marcellin and cervelle de canut cheeses.

Moderate-cost dining: Cafe Comptoir de Lyon (4 Rue Tupin) has an antique mirrored bar reaching to the ceiling, basic tables, a bouchon serving most of the simple fare they’re noted for. Also known as Chez Sylvain, luncheon menus are $9 and $11, cheese, dessert, the works.

Another good bouchon just down the street, Cafe du Jura or Chez Gabriel (25 Rue Tupin) is more of the same, menu loaded with tripe, andouillettes , lentil soups and salads, several Beaujolais, which they chill in bouchons.

Comptoir du Boeuf (16 Rue du Boeuf) is owned by Chef Philippe Chavent, who built the adjoining La Tour Rose into one of the town’s finest and most elegant restaurants in the past decade. More than 30 kinds of wine at the Boeuf served by the glass, 650 choices by the bottle, simple bistro food like a gargantuan pot au feu for $8.50, a delicious plate of hot ham with ginger sauce and vegetables for $5.60. Pop in any time for cold dishes, pate, cheese.

Going first-class: Grand Hotel Concorde (11 Rue Grolee; $64 to $90) was built in the mid-19th Century and remains the town’s first in traditional style, lofty room ceilings, enormous baths and tiny balconies overlooking the Rhone.

Nandron (26 Quai Jean Moulin) has a patina and warmth that gives you a feeling of opulence and well-being immediately, tables overlooking the river, a menu by Gerard Nandron that has all the good things Lyon and the Rhone Valley have to offer.

Our quenelles de brochet nantua were the best we’ve ever had by far, following a foie gras d’oie et salade and terrine de champignons equally spectacular. Menus here from $22 to $43, the latter a six-course extravaganza.

Two years ago we dined at Orsi (3 Place Kleber) and this trip moved across the alley to Pierre Orsi’s Cazenove (75 Rue Boileau). The first a lovely room replete with fine old paintings, subtle lighting, waitresses in 19th-Centuryankle-length dresses, the latter a fantasy of 19th-Century etched glass, bronze statues, massed flowers, velvet banquettes and more waitresses in pretty, long dresses.

Everything in both places the very freshest, done with unbelievable finesse and style, we heartily recommend that you pay Pierre Orsi a visit at either place.

On your own: Start with the Gallo-Roman Museum where gorgeous friezes, colorful mosaic floors in near-perfect shape, Roman statues and artifacts are displayed dramatically, including a four-foot bronze Neptune that seems on the point of breathing.

Then step outside to visit the Roman theaters, spend an hour or so strolling Old Town, study Lyon’s silk-weaving past at the Textile Museum and allow time for a formidable collection of masters at the Beaux Arts Museum.

Our final show of affection for Lyon food was in the main market for hors d’oeuvres of delicate oysters, sea urchins, black bread and butter with a pot of Macon white at a stand-up stall.

For more information: Call the French Government Tourist Office at (213) 271-6665, 272-2661, or write (9401 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills 90212) for a pictorial map of southeast France describing its sights, plus a hotel listing. Ask for the Lyon package.