Bon Marché Bistro charts new territory

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As soon as you enter Bon Marché Bistro in Monterey Park, you realize it’s not the quaint French café that its name evokes.

Stacks of dishes that look like small sawed-off barrels sit on a counter in front of the open kitchen. Earthenware pots and boxes of fresh produce occupy a ledge in front of the restaurant’s heavy iron stove.

The arrangement may seem haphazard, yet it typifies the traditional farm family kitchens in Hong Kong’s once-rural New Territories, an area wedged between Kowloon and the borderland with mainland China. And Joseph Li, the man at the stove, is giving many Angelenos their first taste of this little-explored region.

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Photo credit: Christina House / For The Times