Milan Fashion Week: At Brioni, luxury whispers

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Now in his second season, Alessandro Dell’Acqua is doing a fine job designing the Brioni women’s collection. And although his mantra may be less-is-more, he certainly spares no expense.

The clothes looked like money on the runway, as elegantly tailored and effortless as those famous $10,000 Brioni men’s suits, but unmistakably feminine.

Imagine a plush, slim line camel coat and full trousers, worn with a blouse in sumptuous orchid pink duchesse silk, or sheer black Chantilly lace with a tiny bow at the neck. Or a charcoal overcoat with the bottom half in mink. Or a cream silk georgette T-shirt embellished with clusters of pyrite stones, paired with light-colored trousers, and a powdery pale fur coat.

In keeping with the air of whisper-quiet luxury, jewelry was bold but not glitzy. Each look was accessorized with a honey-colored horn pendant necklace, an item that seems to be becoming a Brioni signature, while attaining a cult status with fashion editors.

--Booth Moore in Milan